May 15-17 Coda

Oh, boo hoo. Louisiana in the rearview mirror. How can I possibly console myself? What in the world will bring back the smile to my face and the tap to my toe?

How about a zydeco festival -- in Daphne, AL -- halfway between Breaux Bridge and Gainesville?
What a crazy weekend -- two cats, one dog, two women (head for the hills) and ten bands.

The 2009 Gulf Coast Zydeco Music and Crawfish Festival was zydeco central for three days. After last years fabulous turn-out, I think every zydeco dancer in the country showed up for this year's event. Great line-up (Same Ol 2 Step, Brian Jack and the Zydeco Gamblers, Leon Chavis & the Zydeco Flames, Thomas "Big Hat" Fields, Curley Taylor & Zydeco Trouble, Lil Nathan & the Zydeco Big Timers, Geno Delafose & French Rockin Boogie, Tip Tops, Corey “Lil Pop” Ledet, and Terry and the Zydeco Bad Boys), bargain prices -only $10 for Fri. & $10 for Sat. nights with free music during the day on Saturday and Sunday and a slew of dancers.

A special treat for me was seeing Lisa (one of the mandolin players during my Life in Louisiana) play fiddle with Thomas Fields - not a traditional zydeco combination, but it worked!! So it ends, with a little help from my friends, I made it back home without even clicking my heels three times. There's no place like home, there's no place like home, there's no place like home.

May 13 - Last night in Lousiana

I can't believe it's over. What a grand time I have had. I would not trade this experience for all the tea in China, all the snow in Alaska or all the coal in Newcastle. Of course, there was dancing. Of course, there were friends. Of course, there were magical surprises. But the one aspect I treasured (I never tired of any of it!!!) was the family connections -- the Huvals, Berards, Broussards, Ardoins, Savoys, Guidrys, Guillorys, Balfas, Vidrines, Trahans, and many more. Generation after generation of talented, hard-working people with a love of music and a willingness to share. I could travel the world and hear them play, but for three months I got to live with them in their home state, hear them play for friends and family, renewing and refreshing their heritage, something I can never be a part of, but, longingly, cherish from afar.

This last night of happy-sad swirls with dinner at Randol's, dancing to the Lafayette Rhythm Devils and a mad rush to the airport to pick up the house owner. Having never quite adjusted to living in someone else's space, I am surprisingly possessive as Lynda returns.

I feel as if I am being pried away from my most precious possession, even though I know the memories will stay with me for the rest of my life. After three months of Life in Louisiana, I will never again feel like a stranger in a strange land. Louisiana has captured me, heart and soul. I saw a billboard once that said, "We weren't born in Louisiana, but we got here as fast as we could." That's how I feel. I wasn't born there, but I stayed as long as I could, and I'm comin' back as quick as I can!!

May 12 - State Parks

With company in tow (town - ha, ha) it's time to explore wild areas beyond the dance floor. Lake Fausse Pointe State Park and Cypremort Point State Park are on opposite sides of the state, but very worth the drive. Lake Fausse is near the tip of the Whiskey River/Atchafalaya Basin and a favorite haunt of bird watchers, alligator seekers and brave kayakers. Cypremort (dead cypress) is located on Vermilion Bay, that inset of water that brings Lafayette much closer to the gulf than you would imagine. Both parks are beautiful, quiet, non-commercialized and way out in the middle of nowhere (like a lot of my favorite places in SW Louisiana). We'd heard about Holly Beach, the Cajun Riviera, but that was too far --- almost to Texas.

May 8-9 Calm before the Storm

Now that the end of my Life in Louisiana is approaching, the visitors pile one on top of the other. Jessi left yesterday for Pensacola and Don and Karin arrive today from Gainesville. What fun we'll have exploring dance adventures in Dance Heaven.

Friday night is a FREE concert in downtown Lafayette at Parc Internationale featuring Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys with special guest, Geno Delafose. All the people I have met in the last three months have gathered for the dancing and Karin & Don have no trouble finding partners. 'Course the "locals" (many of whom are not from Louisiana, but have been drawn here like moths to a flame) think that Don is pure Cajun and Karin is too pale to be from Florida - maybe Minnesota?

Saturday - you know the drill. Cafe des Amis for breakfast and zydeco dancing, this is my last Z-Breakfast :( then off to Fred's in Mamou to please our happy feet. Our new friend from Ville Platte is crazy to dance with us "newbies" --- he is amazed at how well we pick up the Cajun beat. Please read with a hint of sarcasm, he may be Cajun, but he's no dancer!!! I've been hearing about The Hotel Cazan, so we hitch our boots on over. But it's smoky (we are getting soooo picky in our old age) and the band doesn't hold our attention, so we don't stay long.

Saturday night is another trip to the Liberty Theater in Eunice, LA for Rendez Vous des Cajuns , one of my favorites. Our special treat is Paul Daigle and Family Gold. His "regular" band is Paul Daigle and Cajun Gold, but tonight he plays with his children + a Huval. Dreu (in the yellow dress, and barefoot) keeps smiling at us as we dance around the lower stage. Amazingly, this night and the band are described in great detail at http://www.lsue.edu/acadgate/music/pdaigle3.htm. Most touching to us was Paul's sincerity when he described the riches of his life --- his family, his talent and the special pleasure of making music with his children.

After the show, I meet a lively 85-year-old woman while on my way to the restroom. She admired our dancing (people are soo kind) and invited us to hear her baby (83-year-old) brother play fiddle with a group at Bubba Frey's. Well, that sounds interesting -- but you ain't heard the half of it :) The restaurant is on the way home, but still way out in the middle of nowhere. The sister is at a table for 8 and they are the only ones there. But the menu looks yummy, we are starving and the music isn't half bad. The owner of the restaurant (in his 40's and definitely the baby of the group) is in the center of 6 musicians, all over 70 --- ahh, there's hope for us yet. On the far left, the fiddle player starts having fun as soon as we walk in the door. Have you ever heard a fiddle whistle? Whoo-hoo, as in, look out good-lookin'. The antics just get juicier and we end up laughing our socks off --- ever hear a fiddle-fart? What a time, what a night - magical and hysterical!!!

Sunday dawns bright and warm. Nunu's in Arnaudville is holding another interview session by Marcie Lacouture and guests Joe Hall, Mitch Reed, Mary Broussard, and Joe Vidrine. Another web quote, "Joe Hall is one of the many Louisiana musicians who have set their sights on the preservation of their music and culture. However, he is one of only a few of the Creole musicians who have turned away from the contemporary Zydeco sound and focused their energies on preserving older Creole songs and musical traditions." AND he barbequed the chicken for the morning brunch. Catch the energy on You Tube. After a quick visit to the cajun jam at Tom's Fiddle & Bow, just for the experience and pleasure of gazing out the balcony over Bayou Fuselier, we mosey back to Breaux Bridge to rest up for our HUGE afternoon adventure.

Karin and I bump over the not-yet-newly-paved road to Henderson, LA (Don had to start for home after Nunu's) for dancing at Whiskey River Landing. Renowned for it's Sunday afternoon crowds we are surprised to see very few cars in the parking lot. Wait, Geno's not playing - that explains everything. But I am happy to see that repairs after Hurricane Gustave (WRL is one of three favorite dance venues that lost roofs and suffered water damage) have taken away none of its charm. The band is situated with their backs to a full wall of windows overlooking, actually, overhanging, the beautiful Atchafalaya Basin. Jeffrey Broussard (some relation to Mary, whom we heard this morning) and the Creole Cowboys get the crowd wound up and dancing. Lots of friendly faces - Floyd whom we met Friday night, Marianne & Michel the Belgians, Leon ever present bundle of dance energy, and Gerald from Ville Platte, plus other unnamed charmers.

When our stomachs start to holler, "Dinner!!" we quick-hop to Pat's Atchafalaya Club right around the corner for burgers and Steve Riley. Pat's is situated between the basin and Bayou Amy (ah-me). Pat (Huval) started selling crawfish and hamburgers near this location in 1948.

Karin has never seen this dance floor and quickly dis-equates our usual Sunday night at GDMA with 8 dancers being a good crowd to Life in Louisiana where hundreds of dancers twirl to zydeco, tw0-step or waltz around the floor, and, will wonders never cease, find a few opportunities for West Coast Swing. Mr. Aren't-you-from-Minnesota turns out to be a fabulous dancer of all types and a fun friend to hang out with on this magical night.

May 6 - Joe Hall with Mes Amis

We are at Cafe des Amis tonight. Jessi is back in town and wants to try something from the menu besides breakfast. Our table becomes fuller and fuller as the evening progresses. Ken, the Alaskan fiddling poet joins our little party. Chelsea is next - she is heading to Nova Scotia next week to begin the French Immersion program at St. Ann's. Then Marianne & Michel (the Belgians) pull up chairs. The music is average. Joe is a great guy and good musician, but this is an acoustic set and the energy is low. But hey - there's dancing, so no complaints from this quarter!!

Le Cafe is a little lunch spot with fabulous Shrimp Po'boys. We had lunch there yesterday --- look for the little yellow house on Rees St. More home-cookin'. What I love about these little eateries is, when they have cooked and served all the food for the day, they close up shop and go home (or maybe they go dancing!!). Breaux Bridge is no paradise, but there seems to be an absence of money-grubbing, greed among the local merchants and restaurateurs.

Dinner last night with our new Belgian friends reminds me how determined I am to get to Paris this summer, and perhaps to visit them in Brussels. Add LITE to this mix and I know I am leading a charmed Life in Louisiana.

May 1-3 Another Festival?

'Tis the season. This weekend is the Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival .... celebrating all things écrevisses. There are queens, princesses, kings, contests, parades, races, food, arts, crafts, dance lessons, bands galore and carnival rides.

Of course, I'm here for the dancing!! There are three stages so I can't see it all. Friday night was Pine Leaf Boys on one stage conflicting with Cedric Watson on another. Having missed his outstanding performance at Festival Internationale (I was too tired to stay) I really wanted to see Cedric Watson. He has assembled a talented group of musicians and they are in prime form. Blues de la Musician, Pine Grove Blues, waltzes, two-steps and zydeco - he does it all :) But the crowd is getting thick and no one is dancing - where did the dancers go? They are all at the Breaux Bridge Tent dancing to Al Berard Family Band. Wood dance floor (as opposed to concrete or asphalt) and great music. The whole family is onstage including husband & wife Laura B. Huval-acoustic guitar, vocals and Adrian Huval-accordion, saxophone/vocals, with Maegan Berard-electric guitar, vocals, and Kyle Hebert-bass, fiddle. Of course, Mom & Dad lead the show --- Karleen Berard, t-fer, vocals and Albert Berard-guitar, mandolin, fiddle, vocals.

Saturday is going to be long & hot, so I've got to pick & choose. Balfa Toujours is tops on the list with Christine Balfa, Dirk Powell, Joel Savoy sitting in on fiddle and Yvette Landry on bass. Christine gets a chance to show her t-fer skill as Dirk & Joel play dueling fiddles. Evening brings Steve Riley, Geno Delafose, and Hunter Hayes. 'nough said about the first two!! Hunter Hayes is a native of Breaux Bridge made famous by his appearance with Hank Williams Jr. in Texas when he was 5 years old. He played Jambalaya - accordion & vocals - and was a BIG hit, catch it on You Tube!! Well, that was 12 years ago. He is much cuter now & just as talented, playing guitar, singing R&B, country, cajun, etc. It's a young crowd with few dancers, I guess all the dancers are at Geno!! After a couple of zydeco partners, including the drunk who kept spilling his beer on me, I decided tomorrow is another day.

Sunday was T-storm day. I got to The Festival Stage in time for Bonsoir Catin (Anya Burgess, Christine Balfa, Kristi Guillory & Yvette Landry) to play their first song. The pitter-patter of drops brought out the umbrellas - did you know you can dance under an umbrella?? Yummm :) But the wind forces the band to protect their instruments, so the music is over for a bit. Thirty minutes later the rain is over, the band is out and the concrete dance floor is slick. Does that stop the dancers? NO!! We dry out a path with our travelin' two-step and enjoy the rest of the set. The rain comes again as the last number begins and we scuttle to the car just in time to avoid the monsoon.

Dinner tonight (May 3rd) with Gerry's house guests at Zea's. What a wonderful evening with new friends. They are Deidre & Linda from England and Marianne, Michel & Daniel from Belgium. Lots of talk about the zydeco festival in Soileau, France in August. Wanna go?

April 26 - Festival International #3

Lunch was at Hub City Diner. Lafayette is known as Hub City (all roads lead to it, I guess) and this was 50's style with a Cajun twist. I had my usual grilled cheese, but with a creamy chicken soup all peppered-up. Nicey, spicey.

Then off to the festival again for Crocodile Gumboot Dancers from South Africa. They also performed at Jazz Fest. From their website, "The gumboot dancers perform a chorus entitled “Tsakeni – Be Excited” which regularly brings broad smiles to the faces of their audience. The dancers put a tremendous amount of energy into their performances, making the earth shake in time with their feet." Sometimes my descriptions fall short :)

I caught a little of Horace Trahan with The Bluerunners (not enough) but the sun was beating mercilessly by this time so I headed for some shade while waiting for the zydeco band. Li'l Nathan was all dressed up in a suit!! I've heard the group several times at Cafe des Amis, but they pulled out all the stops for the festival crowd (not unusual). But I was about done in. Good thing that was the last act. Too much of a good thing, this Life in Louisiana.

April 26 - Hadley Castille

Legend in his own time. I guess he's mid-70's, been playing cajun music, singing in French, traveling with bands most of his life. He did have a day job in heating & a/c, but now that he's retired he plays and sings for love. Today his granddaughter, Sarah Jayde joins him at the Blue Dog Cafe for a lively family set with his son, Blake on guitar. I can't remember the bass players name, but he is a 4-time grammy winner. Hmm, who's on drums? Eyes wide in amazement --- that's John Rees of the brother/sister band L'Angelus.

April 25 - Festival International #2

Nap is good, but now it's time for more music, dancing, food, fun!! That's what Life in Louisiana is all about. We park at the Cajun Dome and take the free shuttle into DT Lafayette. The city streets are closed, there are 6 stages for music and vendors fill the empty spaces.

After wandering the entire festival due to being directionally-challenged, even with a map, I finally end up at the TV5Monde stage for The Quebe Sisters Band from Texas. They are 3 young women (sisters, silly) who play fiddle and sing, backed up by two guys playing guitar and bass. They play Texas swing and lotsa other stuff. Probably my favorite non-cajun act of the festival.

We caught a little Walter Mouton (he's trying to retire!!) at the Heritage Stage and then sat through a group called Genticorum from Quebec. Flute, guitar, fiddle & feet. From their website, "They weave precise and intricate fiddle and flute work, gorgeous vocal harmonies, energetic foot percussion and guitar and bass accompaniment into a big and jubilant musical feast. Their distinctive sound, sense of humour and stage presence make them a supreme crowd pleaser." Pleasing, indeed. Check 'em out - surely there's something on You Tube.

Then there was Chic Gamine, an all female group (except for the drummer, I'm sensing a pattern) of jazz singers and musicians - well, they do it ALL. These gals from Manitoba project personality, each one different than the next and all irresistable.

Cajun comes next with Balfa Toujours. This is a premier band with top performers. Today, Dirk Powell is on accordion (fresh from touring with Joan Baez), Christine Balfa, daughter of Dewey Balfa - see Heritage Camp - plays guitar and triangle (check out her CD), Joel Savoy & Kevin Wimmer are on fiddle. There's a drummer back there, but I can't quite see who it is.

Cedric Watson & Bijou Creole is the piece de resistance, but he starts out slow and I just can't resist my droopy eyes. Karen & I leave early (9:30pm after being there since 3pm) and my sources tell me I missed a phenomenal set. Damn -- even living the Louisiana Life I'm bound to miss something!

April 25 - Backwards

With company in town, the zydeco breakfast & Fred's seem the logical place to start, but, just for a change, let's do it backwards!! We get to Fred's in Mamou about 9am -- not bad considering it's an hour's drive. Even at this time of day (we usually get there about noon) the place is packed and Tante Sue is handing out the Cinnamon Schnapps and playing her T-shirt with the accordion picture. See Tante Sue here --- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kEMD802IYE The MC is reading the local paper into the microphone in French (after all, it IS a radio show) including the grocery ads. The accordion player is young, and good, and, do tell, a Huval (large family? lots of musicians? remember?). I figure this might be my one and only time to have alcohol before 10am (since I am now a mature adult, finally) so I belly up to the bar and order a daiquiri. OK, it's a daiquiri wine cooler, but it still has some kinda booze in it.

Then it's off to the Savoy Music Store to catch the regular Sat. morning Cajun Jam. It's closed? Awww! Later we get the story. Ann & Marc Savoy have a gig at Jazz Fest at 2pm in New Orleans. They rented a luxury travel van and loaded all their regular jam attendees, carting them to New Orleans for the day. When it is time for their performance, they bring ALL the jam members up on the stage and their "act" is to feature the local musicians who show up regularly at the store. What a fantastic time they must have had. The people who come to the jam are regular folk - farmers, tradesmen, young, old, male, female, mostly local but travelers who play are always welcome. Today they play for the world!!

Oh well, there's always breakfast at Cafe des Amis with zydeco dancing before, during & after. Back to Breaux Bridge we go. Getting there after 11am there is no cover charge, but we still have to wait for a table. That's OK - there's dancing while we wait. Our disappointment comes when we are seated, the band is packed and gone and we discover it's lunch menu only :( Shrimp Kidder, anyone? Hard to be disappointed when the food is this yummy. Eat, dance, sleep - time for a nap. That's Life in Louisiana.

April 24 - Quiet Night at Mulate's

After a hot, walking-filled day in New Orleans with Karen, I am ready for some quiet time. Not real quiet, Lee Benoit quiet. Still so worn out from the day, we order dinner and enjoy the music. There is a dance or two here and there --- and then the energy returns. Lee dedicates his "Dance, Dance, Dance" again and one song just hits the spot. Probably the best dance of my life, wish I could remember the tune --- fortunately Karen got a picture, so I'll have that to remember the night.

April 22 - Festival International #1

The Festival begins tonight. Should be the highlight of my three month stay. I have been able to listen to so much music, dance 'til my feet burn and "study" the culture through films and conversations. This festival in Lafayette brings music from all over the world in addition to showcasing local talent - many of whom have already been mentioned in these posts.

Tonight, my friend Karen, from Arizona, is going to get her first dose of crazy!! Pine Leaf Boys are in the house (well, on the stage) and in full-on, knock 'em dead mode. The crowd is full of energy and the dancers look like they've died and gone to heaven --- cajun-style. The festival will continue through the weekend with arts, crafts, food and street performers enlivening the scheduled acts. It is my second taste of BIG FESTIVAL Louisiana-style, first being Jazz fest last year. The non-dancing crowd is heavy and it is tough to get through the streets.

After Pine Leaf Boys, the crowd begins to get even worse. There is only one stage tonight and the next act is Keith Frank Family Band, from the small rural community of Soileau in Allen Parish. Bio from the web, " Keith is the son of Preston Frank, member of one of the great Creole musical families. Their family can trace its musical lineage at least as far back as great-grandfather Joseph Frank Jr., an accordion player, and great-great-grandfather, Joseph Frank Sr., who played fiddle. Neither ever recorded. His great-uncle Carlton Frank, one of the last of the old-time Creole fiddlers, died in 2005, at the age of 74." A huge group of young people have come just for this performance. He now adds elements of rap to his music, which dismays purists but brings out these younger listeners.

April 21 & 23 - More Balfa Camp

April 21 - I really wanted to see what the Dewey Balfa Cajun and Creole Heritage Weekcamp was like in the daytime, maybe sit in on an accordion lesson, so I signed up to volunteer. Bad news, they only needed volunteers in the evening :( Good news, I get in free to the dance, and Geno's playing. An hour's drive gets me to the park for an hour's dancing and an hour's "work." I took money and handed out tickets (for food & drink). My fellow volunteer was 74 year old Gilbert Deshotel (zjil-bear dez'-otel). He has lived in Ville Platt all his life, worked in a mine and at the post office, married 57 years to his high school sweetheart and fondly recalled to me the beautiful day of his wedding.

April 23 - The rain is over, but the mosquitos are out in force. Not to worry, if you dance enough, they won't be able to land on your skin. With Savoy Family Band on stage --- Marc Savoy, accordion and daddy; Ann Savoy, guitar, vocals and mommy; Joel Savoy, fiddle and oldest son; and Wilson Savoy, keyboard (whew - hot) and younger son; joined by Drew Simon (see - mohn) on drums --- there will be no lack of music. The camp is winding down, but the participants are all wound up and there is no lack of partners, either. The music keeps everyone on the floor for every dance. I "pity the fool" that just stands there watchin'.

April 18 - Rain, Rain, Go Away

Dewey Balfa Cajun and Creole Heritage Week is held at Chicot State Park near Ville Platte, Louisiana. It is a week of instrumental and dance workshops. On the weekend and in the evenings dances are held for the participants and open to the public. The crowd is heavy but the last legal parking space is straight ahead. I get to the Dance Stage in time forBonsoir, Catin - an all girl (except for the drummer) Cajun band that is kickin'. The talent includes accordion player Kristi Guillory, fiddle player Anya Schoenegge Burgess (also in Magnolia sisters), guitarist Christine Balfa Powell, daughter of the late Dewey Balfa (also in Balfa Toujours) and Yvette Landry on bass. Nice quote from their website --- So what does a Cajun band wish for when playing live? "We’re hoping to get a good dance crowd,” Guillory said with a gust of laughter. Wishes do come true!!

Not 5 minutes into the dance (about 5pm) the rain starts - and I left my umbrella and chair in the car, I was so anxious to get on the dance floor. When the rain is still pounding an hour later and my feet are aching, I borrow an umbrella (from Gina Forsythe, violin player for Bruce Daigrepont Cajun Band) and slog to the car for my umbrella & chair. Except for food & drink, I am set for the night and it's a good thing since the rain is still coming down and turning into quite a monsoon.

The dancing and fun continue with Curley Taylor & Zydeco Trouble. The zydeco crowd & cajun crowd overlap a bit, but it is interesting to me how many dancers show up just for the zydeco, and how many dancers leave (or sit out) when the cajun is over. Curly puts on a good show, though, so I am on the floor (dancing, of course) as much as possible. The thunder & the lightning can't drown out his beats and the rhythm of the feet on the soft floor. That's what I am starting to call those raised wood floors that have "bounce" spots. Dancing where the floor is moving with you is scary, but way cool!!

Third band is Read Stick Ramblers --- love that energy, but .... cancelled. Everyone go home while the roads are still safe. The weather has gotten even worse outside, and next day the flooded roads and wind damage are all over the news. The ride home was wet, but uneventful and I was happy to pack it in by 10:30pm.

Apr 17 - Surprise!!

Why didn't this get more press? I'm not that disconnected from the local scene. Long Tall Marica Ball is playing a free concert at Parc Internationale in downtown Lafayette. I got there early and managed to park my chair in the front row. Munching through the sound check (hot dog and a beer) and chatting with my seat neighbors made time speed by. What a show!! All her standards - New Orleans is a Party Town, Mama's Cookin', Crawfishing, Louisiana, etc. Dancing as the sun sets behind the buildings, the moon and stars begin to show through the evening haze, the breeze is blowing lightly -- could be a perfect night.

But there's more! Around the corner and down the street, Grant St. Dance Hall is hosting a 77th birthday party for D.L. Menard. Do you think there's a band? Not just A BAND.

**********LBR************* (Lost Bayou Ramblers, for the uninitiated)

The legend (D.L. Menard wrote J'ai Passe' Devant Ta Porte) joins Louis, Alan, Chris, Andre (we heard him with his father & uncles at Prejeans) and Caruth (with no beard) on stage for classic cajun fiddle. Dance, dance, dance. Dance the night away. Nuthin' but dancing. Ahhhhhhh! Life in Louisiana ...

Apr. 17 - Acadiana Film Festival

The first film I saw was Re-Awakening, the story of Kate Chopin and how she came to write one of the great "feminist" novels of all time. Astounding in that she wrote it in 1899, a time when women were sheltered or smothered, depending on your interpretations. Jessi (my daughter) loaned me the book in 2006 and I was super-excited when I found out it takes place partly in New Orleans. The documentary chronicles her life and writing career. Her family was St. Louis Creole - high class French.

For lunch, I went to Dwyer's. I'd been hearing about lots of fun places to eat in downtown Lafayette, and this was one of them. I had the best grilled cheese & fries EVER!! Plus they offer a plate lunch (more on that later). After eating I wandered over to Parc Sans Souci where Bach Lunch was in full swing. The Canes were playing - they are kind of like Sister Hazel with an accordion!! I grabbed a dance or two, but mostly watched the locals --- how do they do that?

The afternoon film was Raised on Rice and Gravy. This is a documentary by Connie Castille from Breaux Bridge about Plate Lunch Specials. This is a SW Louisiana tradition. Seems like every corner store, gas station and local restaurant serves up a pile o' food with a different menu each day. The menu is posted, but regulars know what's what!! The food is home-cooking and the price is right. The Plate Lunch at Dwyer's (above) was smothered pork chop, dirty rice, green beans, potato salad, with corn bread. If that didn't fill you up, you could always catch a serving of bread pudding. Cheap, fast, delicious!

Apr. 16 - Accordion Dreams

Blair Kilpatrick started her cajun journey many years before me, and now she's written a book that tells the tale. Listening to her stories and hearing her play the accordion was a real treat. I haven't been to very many book signings, but I just couldn't resist the combination of chatting with an author and hearing cajun music!! I haven't read the book yet. I'll let you know what I think and then you can borrow it!

Her next book is going to be a mystery set at a music camp in NE Alabama (just kidding).

Apr. 14 - A Fiddling Tradition

Tonight Vermilionville dance hall is filled with cane-back chairs (very uncomfortable, unfortunately) where we sit to listen to Anya Burgess (Bonsoir Catin, Magnolia Sisters, etc.), Matthew Doucet (son of Michael - Beausoleil) and Chris Segura, all talented fiddle players, talk about making fiddles.

Did you know??
1) hand-made fiddles are made to the 10th of a millimeter precision
2) the backs are made from a single piece of wood, split, then "butterflied"
3) the grain of the wood can be flared or cross-cut
4) the ribs are glued to the frame with Hide Glue (made from dead horses)
5) the back and top are carved to achieve the curve

6) the difference between a fiddle and a violin?



A violin has strings; a fiddle has strangs.

April 8-10 Another G'ville visitor

This time it is my friend, Pam, who loves art. We spend time on Wednesday exploring St. Martinville and the Longfellow State Historic site. Thursday is Blue Dog day with a visit to the George Rodrigue gallery, the Blue Dog Cafe and the Center for Acadiana Arts where his work is on display. Friday finds us back in the swamp (Lake Martin) for a spectacular weather day and lotsa gators. But you tuned in for the dancing, right?

April 8 - Cafe des Amis and L'esprit des Cajuns with Lisa Trahan, Christine Balfa, Joel Savoy's girlfirend & a guy on bucket bass. Lisa's dad, Harry, sits in for a few songs to the delight of all.
April 9 - Mulates for Lee Benoit
April 10 - Randal's for Jambalaya - mostly couples, but we met an interesting older man who regaled us with stories of cajun days. He is a part-time tour guide at Vermilionville and very sweet.

April 6th - Culinary Delight

When company is in town, the weekend extends. I've eaten at Prejean's before, but tonight's meal is fabu-delicious. I start with Shrimp Sassafrasa, two jumbo shrimp stuffed with pepperjack cheese, grilled Tasso, wrapped with apple wood-smoked bacon, breaded and fried and set in a Crawfish Cardinale cream sauce. The G'ville company wants to try the gumbo (again) and settles on Chicken & Sausage, the best of three. Then there's Oysters Mardi Gras, recommended by the waiter, and Crawfish Enchilada served with rice dressing and corn macque choux. The rice dressing is a plop of dirty rice - the best I've ever had - and corn macque choux is sweet corn kernels and red peppers in a cutsie mini-pie shell. We had no room left for dessert and had to take the Bourbon Street Pecan Pie home with us. Just couldn't resist the description -- buttery caramel pecans, layered on a rich gooey filling with a hint of bourbon, all resting in an all-butter short paste crust.

Les Frere's Michot entertained us with cajun music --- they are the uncles and father of Louis & Andre Michot of Lost Bayou Ramblers. Wait, that's Andre sitting in --- ahhh, a Lost Bayou boy. Can't wait to see my guys this trip, hope it's soon.

Apr 3-5 Gainesville Company

April 3rd finds us at McGee's Landing, overlooking the Atchafalaya basin. We've had a lot of rain recently and the water is high as the sun dips below the trees. Tonight, Harry Trahan is reuniting with longtime friend and fiddler, Russell Quibodeaux for a splendid Cajun night. Joining the old-timers are Harry's daughter, Lisa Trahan of the Magnolia sisters and Joe Vidrine on guitar, Jane Vidrine's son (Jane is also in the Magnolia Sisters). The music is traditional, Harry does all of the singing in his gravelly voice and I am moved by the joy I see on Lisa's face as she plays alongside her dad. Take a listen to the sound http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz5ltrhShYs&feature=related

April 4th is gonna sound mighty familiar, especially with company in tow. Cafe des Amis for breakfast and dancing, then that long country drive to Fred's in Mamou. Today at Fred's we are entertained by a gentleman from Ville Platte who wants to teach us how to dance. What a hoot!! After a nap it's off to a party in Lafayette. This home is made for company. The dining, living & kitchen areas are laid out so that it's easy to walk around. There's a deck and patio out back where Cedric Watson and others are playing. AND there's a fabulous tree house - screened and elevated to catch the breeze and overlooking a rippling brook, er, bayou.

As if we haven't danced, visited & partied enough, we head on over to Randol's in Lafayette for Paul Daigle and Cajun Gold (shown at the Liberty Theater in Eunice in 2001). Paul is a former accordion prodigy (now he's older, so he's can't be a prodigy!!) and he's got talented fiddle, guitar & drums to round out the traditional Cajun grouping.

April 5th takes me to Vermilionville to tour the village and dance a bit to Cheryl Cormier and friends. There's tons to do today so choosing is tough, but Geno is at Nunu's so .... It's a fund-raiser for the young people who are going to St. Ann's in Nova Scotia for the summer. Here they will be immersed in the French language, Acadiana music and the culture and history of their ancestors. Hadley Castille is in the house supporting his granddaughter, Sarah Jayde, who will be one of the students.

We hate to leave early, but High Performance is having a CD release party at Mulates and it's supposed to end at 9pm. So at 8:30 we pull ourselves away from Geno and head on down the road. Hello --- I have never seen this many cars at Mulate's. The joint is jumping with young people and High Performance is going strong. The visitor was hoping for a chance to dance to Steve Riley during the visit, but we missed him Saturday night. This band is another of those conglomerates, and there he is, yanking that accordion in that Riley-style. We dance 'til our boots are achin' and our bones are breakin' from the crush of the crowd. When we give up fighting for space, we stand by the edge watching the feet. This is NOT Cajun dancing. This is NOT Zydeco dancing. Whew - but it sure is fun!!

Apr 1 - No Foolin'

Cafe des Amis has been a mid-week joy!! Tonight it is my mandolin friends again, but this time they are playing fiddle and guitar as well, and pulling out swing, old-time, gypsy and cajun tunes for our listening entertainment. They are called Easy Street and it is an easy time, bit 'o wine, nice dinner, friends at the table .... ahhh. Did I mention dancing? No? Well, I did!!

Mar 31 - Parlez-vous Francais?

Yeh, yeh --- not music. So skip this one!!

Life in Louisiana is not complete without a bit of French immersion. I had heard about French tables and decided it was time to try one out. Coincidentally, there was one meeting right after my hair appointment (with Dreu Daigle, Paul's daughter - I'm a name-dropper, Cajun-style).

Here's the drill - you have lunch with strangers who wish to speak only French during this time, although they all speak English, too. We met at the Jefferson St. Pub in downtown Lafayette. Very cool, large, old building, probably a hotel in a former life. We were ten, and I couldn't understand a WORD in the babble around me :(

Politely, one person asked my name. "Je m'appelle Joyce," my HS french replied. "Blah, blah, blah nom de famille," I heard in reply. Huh?? Votre mere? Votre pere? Nom? What nice people, resorting to baby-talk French so that I can understand. "Uhh, Thompson,' I replied. With a knowing nod (was that a sneer?) he said, "Anglais."

Mais, oui --- I did my best and sort of understand the kind gentleman who spent some of his time talking only to me. When I needed to talk, however, in answer to a question or to keep up my end of the conversation, it was back to parle de bebe.

Mar. 29 - Cajun Mandolins Again

Sunday morning and the Blue Dog is playing host to the mandolin trio that we heard at Nunu's last week. Since you've already heard about the band, let me tell you about The Blue Dog Cafe.

George Rodrigue paints scenes of Cajun life with a ghostly quality. His work is currently on exhibit at the Acadiana Center for the Arts in Lafayette. While working on an image for the cajun legend of the loup-garou (french werewolf) he created a dog with an unearthly, blue-gray cast to its fur. Ultimately, this "blue dog" became an iconic symbol in his art along with a heavy oak found often in the background.

The Blue Dog Cafe displays much of his work, sells books and T-shirts and serves a delicious menu of SW Louisiana yummies AND hosts a Sunday brunch with live music.

Lots of dance and music people show up at The Blue Dog and then move over to the Blue Moon Saloon. We are all attending a memorial event for a fellow traveler who has left us for the music jam in the sky. Dave is not someone I know, but his life touched many people in the area and they organized a special tribute and jam to celebrate his spirit. What a warm feeling, to see that so many people (famous and otherwise) appreciate Dave's contribution to Life in Louisiana.

Mar 28 - Not Nunu's

Well, I tried. Bonsoir Catin was advertised at Nunu's tonight, but one of the band members got sick and they had to cancel the gig :) Bonsoir Catin is an almost all-girl Cajun band with tons of energy. The members mostly play in other bands, too, so maybe I will catch them, or part of them, at another time.

Where y'all dancin' tonight? That's the catch phrase for the Acadiana yahoo group :)

So where will I dance? If not, Nunu's then --- La Poussiere in Breaux Bridge where Pine Leaf Boys (minus Cedric Watson) are makin' a ruckus. My job is to dance 'til I drop so the band won't stop. La Poussiere (means "the dust" in French) is a wonderful dance hall. For those uninitiated, the difference between a dance hall and a bar is:

1) a bar has a large, long bar where you can order drinks and a small place where you can dance
2) a dance hall has a large space where you can dance and a small bar where you can order drinks

It's a "couples" crowd --- I've seen that a lot --- and the floor is so smooth and slippery that I have to change out my boots for regular walking shoes. But the music is Pine Leaf luscious and there are friends to dance with so, "life is good."

Mar. 26-28 Film Festival

As I said, "Life in Louisiana is not all Cajun and Zydeco."

Mar. 26 --- Tonight begins the Cinema on the Bayou Film Festival at Pack & Paddle, think Brasington's on steroids!! It's a great venue with comfortable folding chairs (bag chairs), refreshments and good acoustics. The movies are Anything I Can Catch: The Handfishing Story and The Buffalo Flows. In the first, Pat Mire describes the Cajun tradition, taught to him by his father, of wading into the bayou fully clothed (for some reason, that really got my attention) and reaching into a submerged log to pull out a giant catfish or turtle. Gotta admite that Cajun grit. The Buffalo Flows movie included spectacular scenery & interesting history of the Buffalo River in the Ozarks and how its natural beauty was rescued from the damming fate of so many rivers in the search for hydroelectric resources.

Mar 27 --- Friday night's movies are at LITE: Louisiana Immersive Technologies Enterprise. There is a short, Ken Burns-type movie (still pictures with background music) about the West Nickel Mines Massacre where a man murdered several Amish school children and the community reached out in forgiveness. The second film was called Hot Flash (can you relate?) about three middle-aged women who formed a blues band and travelled all over the world as Saffire, the Uppity Blues Women. Lots of music and happinesshere!!

Mar. 28 --- Saturday takes me to Cite des Arts in downtown Lafayette for Evangeline. This film looks at the myth of the Longfellow poem and the possible myth of the back-story related for tourists at the Evangeline Oak in St. Martinville. It takes an intellectual look at the possiblities behind the poem's origins and gives credit to the poem for bringing world-wide attention to the Acadian people in SW Louisiana. The poem, Evangeline, may not tell a true story of lovers separated only to be re-united on their deathbeds, but it (the poem) can be credited for ingniting personal searches that might re-unite families from Nova Scotia and France to their historical cousins in Cajun country.

The second film this morning was a real head-shaker. Called Tsunami Escape, the young film-maker juxtaposes Long Beach, Washington (his former home) with New Orleans (his present home). Until explanations following the film, I was completely baffled. However, it turns out that Long Beach, WA is in a geologically fragile area, part of the Cascadia Subduction Zone and a tsunami was predicted to hit this area in 1995 (he would have been about 12 years old). The film's images were interlaced with Hurricane Katrina photos, sort of contrasting Washington State with NOLA --- or maybe he was exploring his own fragility in making such a drastic change in his life, moving from the WA to LA, and New Orleans, no less. He should give Cajun country a try --- that'll settle his biscuits!!

Mar. 25 - Nouveau String Band

Cafe des Amis again?? But it's so close, and it is so cute and it has music and dancing!!!

Tonight is Nouveau String Band, a multi-talented swing band with Johanna Devine, a fill-in female singer. The Cafe is packed tonight and we are at a table in the back. Soon the overflow encroaches and we end up sharing (wow!! just like Saturday morning!!) our table with Zach Huval and his girlfriend, Dreu Daigle. Yup, she's Paul Daigle's daughter and he (Zach) is a member of the very musically talented, very prolific Huval family (I think there's 14 children).

What a fun night --- swing dance music just gets people up to dance and keeps them smiling!! Life in Louisiana is not all Cajun and Zydeco.
.

Mar 20-22 More Company

Last week my daughter came to Cajun country and this weekend, my brother (Neal) & son (Alex) are visiting. I am really hoping they will understand the pull that this area has on me, but, if nothing else, I know they will enjoy the music!!

Mar. 20 -- Teche Theater: The Berard Family Band is recording a live CD and DVD tonight in a newly renovated movie house in St. Martinville. The DVD will be a pilot for a possible TV series - sort of Austin City Limits meets Rendez-vous des Cajuns (Liberty Theater). When we finally get into the theater from the sweltering lobby, there is a ton of equipment and a few chairs. We are lucky enough to snag some - it's gonna be a long night!! Due to the recording plans, we wait for sound check(s), camera check(s), light check(s), etc. Finally the music starts so we can get on our feet dancing - but watch out for the camera dolly. The filmmaker is right up front, sitting on a chair with a camera tripod in front of him, being pushed, then pulled, back and forth in front of the stage. It's a good night, great music, fun people - but the interior of the Teche Theater needs some re-decorating!!

Mar. 21 -- McGee's Landing: We are having our fill of swamps today!! After a pirogue tour of Lake Martin followed by boudin and cracklins, we head to the Atchafalaya Basin. McGee's is a large restaurant right on the edge of the water with a spectacular view, especially from the open air deck. The deck, dance floor & eating area have been completely re-done, thanks to Hurricane Gustaf. Tonight I can check one of my trip goals off my list!! BEAUSOLEIL --- ahhhh .... finally, in person and outstanding. I recognized many songs from the CD I own, but when they started playing "new" stuff, I knew I had to buy their latest CD, Alligator Purse. There were only a few dancers and a moderate number of watchers - a disappointing crowd considering the musicianship offered and the chance to celebrate McGee's 25 years in business. But I wasn't disappointed. They were playing just for me, celebrating my 44th day of Life In Louisiana.

Mar 22 -- Nunu's (again): Today we are in for a special treat. Cajun Mandolins, another musical conglomerate, consists of Al Berard (yes, the same one from Friday night, but this time on mandolin instead of fiddle) with Lisa and Mark from Connecticut. They are all playing mandolin, but Lisa has a larger, more rounded version called a mandocello (a lower tone, as in cello). Fingers are flying and music is twinkling in the morning light. I could not find them on You Tube (yet), but close your eyes & listen to the mandolin (not the drums or piano) on this link and you will get a sorta idea --- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gn17xsKqt1s --- X 3 :):) Fiddles and guitars and traded around with the mandolins creating magical memories.

March 18 - Bonne Chance

Good Luck, indeed. Every evening (or morning!!) at Cafe des Amis is a fresh and wondrous experience. The band is snuggled into the bay window and the tables are scattered nearby, but it feels like we are sitting on the front porch listening to our uncles and cousins sing our favorite songs. The four members of the group are all excellent musicians, but it was even more fun watching them enjoy their time playing together.As with many Cajun groups, these men can't give up their day jobs. They are playing tonight for the love of the music and we get to watch and listen (and dance).

I loved this quote I found on the internet, "One of the continuing surprises for anyone who becomes acquainted with Cajun music is just how many musicians are out there playing at home or in jam sessions, especially the number of younger musicians who keep the tradition going just because they love the music. When they get together as a group and let the rest of us in on their music, it is a wonderful treat for everyone. Bonne Chance is certainly an excellent example of why Cajun music continues to thrive."

I was honored to be "let in" this evening.

http://www.lsue.edu/acadgate/music/bonnechance.htm

March 17 - St. Pat's day in Cajun Country

Celjun - not a misprint. It's Celtic music mooooshed with Cajun music and it's tonight at Blue Moon. Twist my arm, I gotta go!!! Tony Davoren on guitar, Mitch Reed on fiddle (he plays fiddle & bass with Beausoleil) and a flute player - wish I'd caught his name!! The music is amazing and we are there to watch. But after the members of the Ryan School of Dance Irish step-dancing team did their thing, the floor was cleared and everyone got into the act. Some of the Irish music was very contra-like, so Matthew instigated a two-square (8 people) dance that was as good as any rehearsed performance.

One of the audience members was staying at the Blue Moon, visiting from Ireland, so she got her flute & joined the band for several numbers. Then the bagpiper arrived, in full Irish regalia fresh from the Lafayette St. Paddy's Day parade, to play with the band. It was a swirling, whirling night of dance and music and high spirits.

March 15 - Arnaudville

I had such a good time last Sunday that I want to share these two special places with Jessi. So it's off to Arnaudville to listen to The Figs at Nunu's. The Figs are an all girl (young lady) musical group. Yes, they play cajun 2-step and waltzes. But they cross over into swing, blues and old-time as the spirit moves them. When they harmonize, you could close your eyes and drift off to heaven. They have a young following, but I see lots of familiar faces as I look around the room. AND in honor of the day, Jess & I order the Jambon - a ham sandwich (ha, ha, ha). Well, there's ham, but it's on a pressed panini sprinkled with freshly grated parmesan cheese that melts into the bread with fig confit liberally spread over the ham.

Fully stuffed, we waddle over to Tom's Fiddle & Bow. Tom repairs fiddles and Lori is an artist. On Sundays they open their studio home in downtown Arnaudville (don't blink, you'll miss it!!) to a very popular Cajun jam. This jam has no figs, but fiddles, guitar, bass, accordion & triangle tickle your ears. The old-timers sing in Cajun French and everyone plays along. If you don't have an instrument, you can tap on the door sill or wander among the art or kick back on the glass porch overlooking Bayou Fuselier. Did I mention the food? Cajuns loooooove to eat, so everyone brings a dish and, as the afternoon grows long, you fill up on whatever suits your fancy!! It's an afternooon fais-do-do that's as simple and heartfelt as anything you can find when living Life in Louisiana.

Mar. 14 - The Marathon Part C

Lunch was very late, leaving us just enough time to get to the Liberty Theater for the 6:00pm show. Bruce Daigrepont Cajun Band was playing. Bruce plays regularly at Tipitina's Uptown on Sunday afternoon (in New Orleans) and is a staple of the Louisiana music scene. The fiddler, Gina Forsyth, just blew us away with her fiddlin' style.

Of course there was dancing - smooth, round the floor two-steppin' with Cajun couples who have been gracing the "lower stage" at the Liberty Theater for decades. During the band's break, the MC, Barry Ancelet (a treasure of Cajun history) engaged the audience with jokes and stories of Cajun life. Our new friends from Maine were a special hit when Barry found out they were from so far away and that Anna spoke French - Canadian French, but ....

We stayed after the band was done playing to chat with Bruce & the band. Matthew's uncle had suggested he look up Barry Ancelet on his trip to Cajun country, so this was an awesome opportunity for that connection. I won't say it because I don't want to get the song stuck in your head, but c'est un petit monde.

Mar. 14 - The Marathon Part B

Jessica is an architecture student at Georgia Tech and I really wanted her to see an incredible space in Sunset, LA called Melange Antiques. I'm not much for old furniture, but you've got to see this place to believe it. In addition to antiques, they have "architecturals," items that one could put in one's home given the right surroundings. My feeble words could not possibly match the reality of 10-foot doors from 18th century Africa. Maybe the website will help. (http://www.melangeantiques.com/european_arch.asp)

After wandering the store and warehouse for a while, our tummies demanded that we depart for food fulfillment. Cute restaurant in Opelousas called Back in Time was not open in time for us!! So we scurried to the corner Palace Cafe .... where Matthew and Anna were seated at the counter waiting for their lunch order. Jess & I were hungry for fried chicken, but it took so long to cook and be served (it was well worth the wait) that we shared life histories with our new friends and arranged to meet them at the Liberty Theater that evening.

Mar 14 - The Marathon Part A

Whenever visitors are in town, the energy level bumps up a notch. I really enjoy sharing my favorite spots with people who have never had the experience. Seeing their delight or amazement reminds me anew why I love my Life in Louisiana.

So we start our morning with zydeco breakfast at Cafe des Amis. Jessi has seen zydeco, but never like this. I armed her with earplugs and got her in line before all the tables were filled. It was a good morning (they usually are) with Corey Ledet and his Zydeco Band. The crowd was mild -- meaning we could get seated and served without too much waiting. But the dance space was crowded so we could get a real feel for that tight zydeco.

We left Cafe early so that we could get to Fred's, but after driving all that way, we couldn't resist stopping at the Savoy Music Store. We wandered around, caught some tunes and did not try the boudin. Then Fred's --- ahhh, Fred's. (http://www.fredsociety.com/mamou.html) We were afraid that we had missed all the fun, but there were several birthday parties, including the Balfa Blast (they were wearing t-shirts that said that!!). The band kept playing until 2pm and Tante Sue sang and offered 'round her cinnamon schnapps. The Balfa Blast table had a tower of beer cans and row upon row of empty bottles. Yep, Fred's is one of a kind, Louisiana-style.

But we are always looking for dance adventure, and as we kicked up our heels in the small dance area, I could sense watchers -- dance junkies, staring at our feet. Eventually we & they had the nerve to introduce ourselves and, before long, they became wonderful friends. Matthew and Anna were from Maine and had flown into NOLA the night before just so they could get to Fred's on time. They had had ONE cajun dance lesson and were ferociously goobling up the dance steps and style from everyone around them. More on this serendipitous friendship later!

Mar 13 - It's a Surprise!

I've been in Louisiana for five weeks, now, and my first visitor arrives today --- well, that's the best surprise of all. Friday the 13th doesn't scare me one bit!!

Jessica, my daughter, was due in on Saturday, but today (Friday) she called me from "the bridge." That would be the bridge over the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge. From there, you are only 45 minutes from paradise. But before you get here, you have to cross the 17 mile long Basin Bridge, over the Atchafalaya Basin (huge swamp!!) and the Pont Breaux over the Bayou Teche. I guess with so much water in Louisiana, it is not surprising that there are a LOT of bridges!!

The other surprise is our mystery destination for the evening. We get in the car and head west on I-10. After driving nearly to Texas (not really) we get off the interstate and drive even more west, then north, then west, then north --- the roads really wiggle around out here!! We are driving through crawfish country where the fields are ponds with traps. Finally, out in the middle of nowhere, rounding a bend with nothing on either side of the road as far as the eye can see --- there is a parking lot with over 100 cars and, fortunately since I'm getting hungry, a huge cajun restaurant. It's DI's and Briggs Brown is playing with other family members.

Briggs Brown is a teen-ager who has been playing accordion since he crawled out of his crib. DI's is a restaurant owned by his grandfather. The other musicians are all family - dad, cousins, uncles, etc. This is really a family place with babies dancing in grandma's arms and couples of all ages two-stepping around.

While taking my turn around the dance floor I can't help but notice a table of maybe 20-25 adults, each one with a huge tray of crawfish in front of them. The trays are 18 inches across and mounded high with bright red mudbugs. Snuggled in among the crawfish are corn on the cob and boiled potatoes. Crowding the table are the other trays which will soon be over-flowing with crawfish shells and other uneatables!!

Jess has a great introduction to Life in SW Louisiana. Up to this point she has only seen New Orleans. As any of you can attest, Cajun country is a whole 'nother ballgame!!

Mar. 7 and 8 - Feeling Better

Mar. 7 --- It's a beautiful evening and there's a bonfire and party on the schedule. The bonfire - burning the last of the hurricane debris - is south of Lafayette. It doesn't take much to get out of the city, but the city is steadily encroaching on rural life. Traffic congestion, housing development and retail sprawl are just as much a part of Life in Louisiana as crawfish and jambalaya. This will be my friend's last bonfire since the city is extending Ambassador Caffrey (a part of the LFT "beltway") through her backyard in a few months.

The party is at another friend's house. Marilyn and all of us are saying good-bye to Janet, who has been living the Louisiana life for several months, but has to return to her reality in Atlanta. As usual, there is tons o' food, although I'm not up to eating much yet. (Did you hear I had bronchitis?) So I wander off to the garage, where more friends are strumming, picking, squeezing and tapping. The jam is lively and I'm in the mood to sit - next to my friend, Monsieur Melancon. The voices with their Cajun cadence and the music with its insistent rhythm mix with the buzz of insects near the lights (no mosquitos yet!!). It's all too beautiful, or maybe I'm just happy to be feeling better and out of the house!!

Mar 8 --- Let me tell you about Nunu's . It is one of my favorite Louisiana spots. The technical name is Nunu's Nightlite and Cafe' offering an art gallery (Town Market Art Gallery), small restaurant and dance hall (Frederick Stage). The owner/operator(s) has great business sense.

To keep the art gallery alive, they offer art classes as well as exhibiting local artists & jewelry. Kelly Guidry's work is on display and I love to visit it there since I will never be able to afford any of his pieces. I have been to his house (his front room is like his gallery) and never ceased to be amazed. A quote from Kelly?? Mon plaisir, "My work is a combination of both subtractive and constructive sculpture. I use the chainsaw and other power tools to cut and burn wood, and welding equipment to bend and weld metal."

The cafe offers full meals, as well as delicious sandwiches big enough to share and a home-cooked Sunday Brunch (more later). During the week they are open for lunch and offer several culinary events as well as cooking classes and a monthly La Table Francaise where everyone speaks French (and eats!!).

But, of course, I am here for the dancing and today Corey Ledet and Cedric Watson are being interviewed by Marce Lacoutoure, a local radio personality. They play a little, talk a lot (I could be dancing!!!) and share their experiences traveling and playing Cajun/Creole music all over the world.

Mar 4 - The Magnolia Sisters

Last evening contained all the elements that make Louisiana (especially Breaux Bridge) so special. After a quiet picnic at the Parc des Ponts de Pont Breaux (Park of the Bridges of Breaux Bridge) just as the sun was setting, I strolled across the street to Cafe des Amis to catch The Magnolia Sisters. The group (pictured) consists of Anya Burgess, Jane Vidrine, Lisa Trahan and Ann Savoy. I knew the combination of female talent would provide a wondrous evening of music, but I had no idea it would bring out the shining stars of this small Louisiana community.

During their set they switched on instruments & vocals. Ann played accordion (her husband Marc Savoy is a famous Cajun musician & makes accordions in his shop in Eunice) and guitar serenading us in French and English in her sweet, light voice. Anya played fiddle (her background is old-time music, her husband plays in T-Sale) and belts out her vocals with no need for a microphone. Jane started on guitar, then joined Anya for several double fiddle tunes adding harmony to the lead singers. Lisa played upright bass, tee fer (triangle, remember?) and rubboard for a solid backbone of rhythm. There were cajun tunes, blues, old-time, waltzes and a couple of fun swing numbers.

Well, as if a solid, free performance by four talented female musicians isn't enough, let me tell you about the others enjoying their evening at the Cafe. Of course, there was Joel Savoy (joe-el' Sa-vwa'), Ann's son, and formerly of the Red Stick Ramblers, but now producing music on his own label. He was sitting with Jesse Lege (Le-jay) who plays accordion up north and has been teaming with other Cajun musicians at several local events lately. Soon Joel's brother, Wilson (Pine Leaf Boys) joined the group to chat and enjoy Mom's music. For a while Connie Castille sat with them. Connie has produced two documentaries on Cajun life -- I Always Do My Collars First: A Film About Ironing, which celebrate the life of Cajun women and Raised on Rice and Gravy, a documentary about plate lunch houses.

Seated at other tables? Joe Hall, accordion player leading Joe Hall and the Louisiana Cane Cutters. His group will be playing the next zydeco breakfast (only 2 more days!!); David Greely, fiddler with Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys; Sonny Landreth, blues guitar; and Ken Waldman, Alaskan Fiddling Poet just returned from his latest travels.

Gazing around at the talent on stage and in the audience sent shivers down my spine. Is there some cosmic force that draws these people to Breaux Bridge, some karmac energy that pulls them together. Just then, Nancy (friend seated at my table) leaned over to me and said, "Connie Castille is going to make a documentary about the musicians in Breaux Bridge."

Well, this evening is a perfect example of the magic in store for anyone who craves a little Life in Louisiana.

Feb 28 - Liberty Theater in Eunice, LA

No zydeco breakfast for me this morning. There ARE other things to do in Louisiana, so I am off to play bridge for the afternoon with the Acadiana Bridge Club in Lafayette. Like bridge players everywhere they are chattering about Jacoby no-trump, getting to game and setting their opponents for 500. But listen closely, cher. Do you hear the Cajun lilt in their voices? Did you pick up on the smattering of French sprinkled throughout the conversations? Did Irene just ask me if I was going to La Poussiere tonight? Life in Louisiana --- even the bridge players dance!!!

No La Poussiere tonight. I am headed back to Eunice to the Liberty Theater. Eunice is about as big as Lake City, but without a major interstate running through its side yard! The Liberty Theater dates from the 1920's and features a restored art deco interior. Every Saturday night it is home to a live radio show delivered in French, Rendez-vous des Cajuns, featuring a living biography, historical re-enactment or live music. Tonight, I'm here for Kevin Naquin and the Ossun Playboys. Waltzing and two-stepping around the floor, I catch myself & partner in the video monitor, but that's OK, nobody can see me on the radio!! For the full feel of this part of Life in Louisiana go to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGHC1o_7urY

Feb. 25 - Cafe des Amis

Most of the Mardi Gras travelers have headed for their homes in far-off states (or countries). Time to settle back in to the magic that is peaceful Breaux Bridge. Although the Zydeco Breakfast is the highlight of the Cafe des Amis week, they also have great dinner/lunch menu items (no, this is not a commercial) and live entertainment on Wednesday evenings. Tonight is Nouveau String Band, a five piece combo that includes fiddle, mandolin, guitar, bass and drums. They play a lively swing set and I can barely sit still to devour my Shrimp Kidder (that's pronounced key-dare' - named after the dishwasher, I've been told). It's a lively evening with 20+ people hangin' out, a few even dancing!!

There is a table for 6-8 by the wall where we usually dance zydeco on Saturday morning. Several familiar faces are seated there, kind of the movers & shakers of Breaux Bridge. There's been a lot of local discussion about future commercial and residential development in my paradise and I'm hoping they are working out ways to keep BB special. Certainly the charm of the evening can't be lost on them!

Feb. 24 - Mardi Gras in Eunice

Eunice, LA is the capital of the Prairie Cajuns (as opposed to the Bayou Cajuns who live closer to the Atchafalaya Basin). Surrounded by crawfish ponds which double as rice paddies in the off season and sugar cane fields, Eunice is home central for Steve Riley, who plays the street gig for free each year as a tribute to his people.

The parade starts with galloping horse riders who, again (see Tee Mamou), have been out in the sun all day scaring up the ingredients for gumbo from their rural neighbors, and drinking beer. This parade lasts for 2 hours and includes wagons with their own port-a-pottys (no sense being uncomfortable), costumed revelers and beads, beads, beads. The revelry is more "drunken" but not out-of-hand. Everyone remembers that this is a family event. Some of the horseback riders are skilled enough (or drunk enough) to ride backwards, stand in the saddle or "slip" off and re-mount while the horse trots on!!

Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys start playing as the parade is ending and the dancers gravitate toward the stage like zombies in a B movie horror flick. NOW I see people I know - the festival goers who make it to all (or as many as possible) the dances. The usual suspects included Ron from Massachusetts, Alex from Alexandria, Chris from Philly, Don & Shirley from Atlanta, Sharon & Jane + two other women from Tampa and Dwight (also from Tampa). Certainly no one was thinking about the economy for those two hours --- that's just Life in Louisiana.

Feb 24 - Mardi Gras in Tee Mamou

THE REAL DEAL --- no New Orleans drunk-fest, no bead-throwing kings & queens. The rural Mardi Gras (the words also apply to the people in costume) is a long-standing tradition of rag-a-muffin costumes (though, not rags, believe me!!), songs, candy-throwing by the Mardi Gras & money-throwing by the crowd. You really have to be there to get the true feel.


The website for the Iota Mardi Gras describes the bands, the stage and the food, but nothing can describe the raw, primitive nature of the songs, the dancing (of the Mardi Gras) and crazy (almost scary-crazy) revelry of the small town participants, children & adults alike.

The children's parade is first. In costume, they cavort to & up on the stage, while being "beaten" (it's pretend) by the Capitaine. In a circle, sorta, facing in --- the performance is for themselves, not the public, we are just watchers --- the Mardi Gras sing the traditional Mardi Gras song while the crowd throws money up on the stage. The children scatter and scramble gathering as many coins as possible. Then they parade off-stage and onto wagons pulled by trucks. The wagons are open cart (see top picture) and the Mardi Gras throw candy to the crowd while dangling out the sides.

The adult parade is even crazier. After a full day in the sun (fortunately, the weather was spectacular that day, low 70's, breezy and partly cloudy) chasing live chickens through neighbors yards on the Courier de Mardi Gras (the Mardi Gras run) the Mardi Gras arrive in wagons and on foot struttin' their stuff and showing off the chickens (which are still alive, for the time being). They also have a time on stage, singing, dancing, waving their arms. At one point I truly wondered if I was still in America, or even on planet Earth!!

Feb 21 - Party Gras

Saturday - crack of dawn (OK 7:30, but that's way early for me) and I'm standing in line at Cafe des Amis, and I'm not alone!!

While we shiver and breathe on our hands, Corey Ledet (Le-day) and company arrive with their amps and instrument cases. Shortly thereafter, $4 cover clutched in my hand, I enter Saturday morning heaven. Where else can you dance (zydeco, of course) and eat breakfast?? We are escorted to the last available table in the place, wedged into a tiny space between the wine rack wall and a long table that seats about 20 (OK, maybe 10). But we are happy to be in the first seating. The people RIGHT behind us were seated while we paid our check!!!!

There's some dancing and some eating and some chatting -- but today is the big pre-Mardi Gras party at Gerry's and I'm gonna be helping with set-up, so by 10am I am winding my way back through the zydeco crowd that is 4 deep at the bar.

One minute it's a garage (at Gerry's) and the next minute it's a dance floor with raised stage at one end. Two trucks & a trailer bring Geno Delafose, equipment and musicians to the party. While I cut King Cake (5 of 'em) the band starts crankin' and the dancers start slow, quick, quickin' and neither stop until the party is over at 4pm. Probably 400 people show, watch from lawn chairs, crowd the dance floor or chow down on the delicious meat pies, boudin, salads and, of course, "my" King Cake!!

Cute picture --- porta potties outside for the men, but inside the ladies are "line dancing" while they wait.

Feb. 20, 2009 - Company's Coming

Life in Louisiana is not all dancing, of course. I am house-sitting, so have fallen into a daily routine of walking the dogs after breakfast (Meche donuts, anyone?) and straightening the house. Unfortunately, this includes washing dishes - no dishwasher :( - but if you eat out enough it becomes a twice a week job, instead of daily. Plus, there's KBON on the radio, so I can listen to the sweet sounds of Cajun or Zydeco music while I do my chores.

Several spectacular weather days allowed for some yard work, trimming rose bushes and raking leaves. I haven't picked any oranges from the tree yet - I'm looking forward to some fresh-squeezed, liquid sunshine.

This week, friends have started to arrive in anticipation of Mardi Gras. Wednesday it's dinner at the Blue Dog Cafe, yummy - but no dancing. We linger too long over dessert and the band at Randol's is over before we get to the check. But, it's Louisiana --- there will be dancing another day!!

And here it is - Friday!! I tried to catch Lee Benoit at Mulate's on Thursday evening and got there for the last half of the last song :( Business is slow, so Mulate's has cut back on their live band schedule. Lee only plays until 9pm - I'll remember that next week!! "Friday night and the moon is out, gonna head on over to the Twist and Shout" --- Maegan is singing, very nice voice and tons of smiles tonight. Drummers don't get enough credit for the band-sound, but without that steady beat, us dancers would be lost.

They play all their (our) favorites with an encore of "Dance, Dance, Dance" in honor of ... dancers!! Friends from Birmingham, AL, brush up on their 2-step and waltz and there's even some time for Pralines (prah - leens) & Ice Cream - yum! The more I hear, the closer I listen and, after waltzing to a particularly lovely tune (Cidalise) I ask the band if it is an original. It is, written by Lee in honor of his mother, Cidalise, and the 8th track on the Ma Petite Femme CD that stays in my car always!!