Mar. 14 - The Marathon Part C

Lunch was very late, leaving us just enough time to get to the Liberty Theater for the 6:00pm show. Bruce Daigrepont Cajun Band was playing. Bruce plays regularly at Tipitina's Uptown on Sunday afternoon (in New Orleans) and is a staple of the Louisiana music scene. The fiddler, Gina Forsyth, just blew us away with her fiddlin' style.

Of course there was dancing - smooth, round the floor two-steppin' with Cajun couples who have been gracing the "lower stage" at the Liberty Theater for decades. During the band's break, the MC, Barry Ancelet (a treasure of Cajun history) engaged the audience with jokes and stories of Cajun life. Our new friends from Maine were a special hit when Barry found out they were from so far away and that Anna spoke French - Canadian French, but ....

We stayed after the band was done playing to chat with Bruce & the band. Matthew's uncle had suggested he look up Barry Ancelet on his trip to Cajun country, so this was an awesome opportunity for that connection. I won't say it because I don't want to get the song stuck in your head, but c'est un petit monde.

Mar. 14 - The Marathon Part B

Jessica is an architecture student at Georgia Tech and I really wanted her to see an incredible space in Sunset, LA called Melange Antiques. I'm not much for old furniture, but you've got to see this place to believe it. In addition to antiques, they have "architecturals," items that one could put in one's home given the right surroundings. My feeble words could not possibly match the reality of 10-foot doors from 18th century Africa. Maybe the website will help. (http://www.melangeantiques.com/european_arch.asp)

After wandering the store and warehouse for a while, our tummies demanded that we depart for food fulfillment. Cute restaurant in Opelousas called Back in Time was not open in time for us!! So we scurried to the corner Palace Cafe .... where Matthew and Anna were seated at the counter waiting for their lunch order. Jess & I were hungry for fried chicken, but it took so long to cook and be served (it was well worth the wait) that we shared life histories with our new friends and arranged to meet them at the Liberty Theater that evening.

Mar 14 - The Marathon Part A

Whenever visitors are in town, the energy level bumps up a notch. I really enjoy sharing my favorite spots with people who have never had the experience. Seeing their delight or amazement reminds me anew why I love my Life in Louisiana.

So we start our morning with zydeco breakfast at Cafe des Amis. Jessi has seen zydeco, but never like this. I armed her with earplugs and got her in line before all the tables were filled. It was a good morning (they usually are) with Corey Ledet and his Zydeco Band. The crowd was mild -- meaning we could get seated and served without too much waiting. But the dance space was crowded so we could get a real feel for that tight zydeco.

We left Cafe early so that we could get to Fred's, but after driving all that way, we couldn't resist stopping at the Savoy Music Store. We wandered around, caught some tunes and did not try the boudin. Then Fred's --- ahhh, Fred's. (http://www.fredsociety.com/mamou.html) We were afraid that we had missed all the fun, but there were several birthday parties, including the Balfa Blast (they were wearing t-shirts that said that!!). The band kept playing until 2pm and Tante Sue sang and offered 'round her cinnamon schnapps. The Balfa Blast table had a tower of beer cans and row upon row of empty bottles. Yep, Fred's is one of a kind, Louisiana-style.

But we are always looking for dance adventure, and as we kicked up our heels in the small dance area, I could sense watchers -- dance junkies, staring at our feet. Eventually we & they had the nerve to introduce ourselves and, before long, they became wonderful friends. Matthew and Anna were from Maine and had flown into NOLA the night before just so they could get to Fred's on time. They had had ONE cajun dance lesson and were ferociously goobling up the dance steps and style from everyone around them. More on this serendipitous friendship later!

Mar 13 - It's a Surprise!

I've been in Louisiana for five weeks, now, and my first visitor arrives today --- well, that's the best surprise of all. Friday the 13th doesn't scare me one bit!!

Jessica, my daughter, was due in on Saturday, but today (Friday) she called me from "the bridge." That would be the bridge over the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge. From there, you are only 45 minutes from paradise. But before you get here, you have to cross the 17 mile long Basin Bridge, over the Atchafalaya Basin (huge swamp!!) and the Pont Breaux over the Bayou Teche. I guess with so much water in Louisiana, it is not surprising that there are a LOT of bridges!!

The other surprise is our mystery destination for the evening. We get in the car and head west on I-10. After driving nearly to Texas (not really) we get off the interstate and drive even more west, then north, then west, then north --- the roads really wiggle around out here!! We are driving through crawfish country where the fields are ponds with traps. Finally, out in the middle of nowhere, rounding a bend with nothing on either side of the road as far as the eye can see --- there is a parking lot with over 100 cars and, fortunately since I'm getting hungry, a huge cajun restaurant. It's DI's and Briggs Brown is playing with other family members.

Briggs Brown is a teen-ager who has been playing accordion since he crawled out of his crib. DI's is a restaurant owned by his grandfather. The other musicians are all family - dad, cousins, uncles, etc. This is really a family place with babies dancing in grandma's arms and couples of all ages two-stepping around.

While taking my turn around the dance floor I can't help but notice a table of maybe 20-25 adults, each one with a huge tray of crawfish in front of them. The trays are 18 inches across and mounded high with bright red mudbugs. Snuggled in among the crawfish are corn on the cob and boiled potatoes. Crowding the table are the other trays which will soon be over-flowing with crawfish shells and other uneatables!!

Jess has a great introduction to Life in SW Louisiana. Up to this point she has only seen New Orleans. As any of you can attest, Cajun country is a whole 'nother ballgame!!

Mar. 7 and 8 - Feeling Better

Mar. 7 --- It's a beautiful evening and there's a bonfire and party on the schedule. The bonfire - burning the last of the hurricane debris - is south of Lafayette. It doesn't take much to get out of the city, but the city is steadily encroaching on rural life. Traffic congestion, housing development and retail sprawl are just as much a part of Life in Louisiana as crawfish and jambalaya. This will be my friend's last bonfire since the city is extending Ambassador Caffrey (a part of the LFT "beltway") through her backyard in a few months.

The party is at another friend's house. Marilyn and all of us are saying good-bye to Janet, who has been living the Louisiana life for several months, but has to return to her reality in Atlanta. As usual, there is tons o' food, although I'm not up to eating much yet. (Did you hear I had bronchitis?) So I wander off to the garage, where more friends are strumming, picking, squeezing and tapping. The jam is lively and I'm in the mood to sit - next to my friend, Monsieur Melancon. The voices with their Cajun cadence and the music with its insistent rhythm mix with the buzz of insects near the lights (no mosquitos yet!!). It's all too beautiful, or maybe I'm just happy to be feeling better and out of the house!!

Mar 8 --- Let me tell you about Nunu's . It is one of my favorite Louisiana spots. The technical name is Nunu's Nightlite and Cafe' offering an art gallery (Town Market Art Gallery), small restaurant and dance hall (Frederick Stage). The owner/operator(s) has great business sense.

To keep the art gallery alive, they offer art classes as well as exhibiting local artists & jewelry. Kelly Guidry's work is on display and I love to visit it there since I will never be able to afford any of his pieces. I have been to his house (his front room is like his gallery) and never ceased to be amazed. A quote from Kelly?? Mon plaisir, "My work is a combination of both subtractive and constructive sculpture. I use the chainsaw and other power tools to cut and burn wood, and welding equipment to bend and weld metal."

The cafe offers full meals, as well as delicious sandwiches big enough to share and a home-cooked Sunday Brunch (more later). During the week they are open for lunch and offer several culinary events as well as cooking classes and a monthly La Table Francaise where everyone speaks French (and eats!!).

But, of course, I am here for the dancing and today Corey Ledet and Cedric Watson are being interviewed by Marce Lacoutoure, a local radio personality. They play a little, talk a lot (I could be dancing!!!) and share their experiences traveling and playing Cajun/Creole music all over the world.

Mar 4 - The Magnolia Sisters

Last evening contained all the elements that make Louisiana (especially Breaux Bridge) so special. After a quiet picnic at the Parc des Ponts de Pont Breaux (Park of the Bridges of Breaux Bridge) just as the sun was setting, I strolled across the street to Cafe des Amis to catch The Magnolia Sisters. The group (pictured) consists of Anya Burgess, Jane Vidrine, Lisa Trahan and Ann Savoy. I knew the combination of female talent would provide a wondrous evening of music, but I had no idea it would bring out the shining stars of this small Louisiana community.

During their set they switched on instruments & vocals. Ann played accordion (her husband Marc Savoy is a famous Cajun musician & makes accordions in his shop in Eunice) and guitar serenading us in French and English in her sweet, light voice. Anya played fiddle (her background is old-time music, her husband plays in T-Sale) and belts out her vocals with no need for a microphone. Jane started on guitar, then joined Anya for several double fiddle tunes adding harmony to the lead singers. Lisa played upright bass, tee fer (triangle, remember?) and rubboard for a solid backbone of rhythm. There were cajun tunes, blues, old-time, waltzes and a couple of fun swing numbers.

Well, as if a solid, free performance by four talented female musicians isn't enough, let me tell you about the others enjoying their evening at the Cafe. Of course, there was Joel Savoy (joe-el' Sa-vwa'), Ann's son, and formerly of the Red Stick Ramblers, but now producing music on his own label. He was sitting with Jesse Lege (Le-jay) who plays accordion up north and has been teaming with other Cajun musicians at several local events lately. Soon Joel's brother, Wilson (Pine Leaf Boys) joined the group to chat and enjoy Mom's music. For a while Connie Castille sat with them. Connie has produced two documentaries on Cajun life -- I Always Do My Collars First: A Film About Ironing, which celebrate the life of Cajun women and Raised on Rice and Gravy, a documentary about plate lunch houses.

Seated at other tables? Joe Hall, accordion player leading Joe Hall and the Louisiana Cane Cutters. His group will be playing the next zydeco breakfast (only 2 more days!!); David Greely, fiddler with Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys; Sonny Landreth, blues guitar; and Ken Waldman, Alaskan Fiddling Poet just returned from his latest travels.

Gazing around at the talent on stage and in the audience sent shivers down my spine. Is there some cosmic force that draws these people to Breaux Bridge, some karmac energy that pulls them together. Just then, Nancy (friend seated at my table) leaned over to me and said, "Connie Castille is going to make a documentary about the musicians in Breaux Bridge."

Well, this evening is a perfect example of the magic in store for anyone who craves a little Life in Louisiana.

Feb 28 - Liberty Theater in Eunice, LA

No zydeco breakfast for me this morning. There ARE other things to do in Louisiana, so I am off to play bridge for the afternoon with the Acadiana Bridge Club in Lafayette. Like bridge players everywhere they are chattering about Jacoby no-trump, getting to game and setting their opponents for 500. But listen closely, cher. Do you hear the Cajun lilt in their voices? Did you pick up on the smattering of French sprinkled throughout the conversations? Did Irene just ask me if I was going to La Poussiere tonight? Life in Louisiana --- even the bridge players dance!!!

No La Poussiere tonight. I am headed back to Eunice to the Liberty Theater. Eunice is about as big as Lake City, but without a major interstate running through its side yard! The Liberty Theater dates from the 1920's and features a restored art deco interior. Every Saturday night it is home to a live radio show delivered in French, Rendez-vous des Cajuns, featuring a living biography, historical re-enactment or live music. Tonight, I'm here for Kevin Naquin and the Ossun Playboys. Waltzing and two-stepping around the floor, I catch myself & partner in the video monitor, but that's OK, nobody can see me on the radio!! For the full feel of this part of Life in Louisiana go to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGHC1o_7urY

Feb. 25 - Cafe des Amis

Most of the Mardi Gras travelers have headed for their homes in far-off states (or countries). Time to settle back in to the magic that is peaceful Breaux Bridge. Although the Zydeco Breakfast is the highlight of the Cafe des Amis week, they also have great dinner/lunch menu items (no, this is not a commercial) and live entertainment on Wednesday evenings. Tonight is Nouveau String Band, a five piece combo that includes fiddle, mandolin, guitar, bass and drums. They play a lively swing set and I can barely sit still to devour my Shrimp Kidder (that's pronounced key-dare' - named after the dishwasher, I've been told). It's a lively evening with 20+ people hangin' out, a few even dancing!!

There is a table for 6-8 by the wall where we usually dance zydeco on Saturday morning. Several familiar faces are seated there, kind of the movers & shakers of Breaux Bridge. There's been a lot of local discussion about future commercial and residential development in my paradise and I'm hoping they are working out ways to keep BB special. Certainly the charm of the evening can't be lost on them!

Feb. 24 - Mardi Gras in Eunice

Eunice, LA is the capital of the Prairie Cajuns (as opposed to the Bayou Cajuns who live closer to the Atchafalaya Basin). Surrounded by crawfish ponds which double as rice paddies in the off season and sugar cane fields, Eunice is home central for Steve Riley, who plays the street gig for free each year as a tribute to his people.

The parade starts with galloping horse riders who, again (see Tee Mamou), have been out in the sun all day scaring up the ingredients for gumbo from their rural neighbors, and drinking beer. This parade lasts for 2 hours and includes wagons with their own port-a-pottys (no sense being uncomfortable), costumed revelers and beads, beads, beads. The revelry is more "drunken" but not out-of-hand. Everyone remembers that this is a family event. Some of the horseback riders are skilled enough (or drunk enough) to ride backwards, stand in the saddle or "slip" off and re-mount while the horse trots on!!

Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys start playing as the parade is ending and the dancers gravitate toward the stage like zombies in a B movie horror flick. NOW I see people I know - the festival goers who make it to all (or as many as possible) the dances. The usual suspects included Ron from Massachusetts, Alex from Alexandria, Chris from Philly, Don & Shirley from Atlanta, Sharon & Jane + two other women from Tampa and Dwight (also from Tampa). Certainly no one was thinking about the economy for those two hours --- that's just Life in Louisiana.

Feb 24 - Mardi Gras in Tee Mamou

THE REAL DEAL --- no New Orleans drunk-fest, no bead-throwing kings & queens. The rural Mardi Gras (the words also apply to the people in costume) is a long-standing tradition of rag-a-muffin costumes (though, not rags, believe me!!), songs, candy-throwing by the Mardi Gras & money-throwing by the crowd. You really have to be there to get the true feel.


The website for the Iota Mardi Gras describes the bands, the stage and the food, but nothing can describe the raw, primitive nature of the songs, the dancing (of the Mardi Gras) and crazy (almost scary-crazy) revelry of the small town participants, children & adults alike.

The children's parade is first. In costume, they cavort to & up on the stage, while being "beaten" (it's pretend) by the Capitaine. In a circle, sorta, facing in --- the performance is for themselves, not the public, we are just watchers --- the Mardi Gras sing the traditional Mardi Gras song while the crowd throws money up on the stage. The children scatter and scramble gathering as many coins as possible. Then they parade off-stage and onto wagons pulled by trucks. The wagons are open cart (see top picture) and the Mardi Gras throw candy to the crowd while dangling out the sides.

The adult parade is even crazier. After a full day in the sun (fortunately, the weather was spectacular that day, low 70's, breezy and partly cloudy) chasing live chickens through neighbors yards on the Courier de Mardi Gras (the Mardi Gras run) the Mardi Gras arrive in wagons and on foot struttin' their stuff and showing off the chickens (which are still alive, for the time being). They also have a time on stage, singing, dancing, waving their arms. At one point I truly wondered if I was still in America, or even on planet Earth!!