Lunch was at Hub City Diner. Lafayette is known as Hub City (all roads lead to it, I guess) and this was 50's style with a Cajun twist. I had my usual grilled cheese, but with a creamy chicken soup all peppered-up. Nicey, spicey.
Then off to the festival again for Crocodile Gumboot Dancers from South Africa. They also performed at Jazz Fest. From their website, "The gumboot dancers perform a chorus entitled “Tsakeni – Be Excited” which regularly brings broad smiles to the faces of their audience. The dancers put a tremendous amount of energy into their performances, making the earth shake in time with their feet." Sometimes my descriptions fall short :)
I caught a little of Horace Trahan with The Bluerunners (not enough) but the sun was beating mercilessly by this time so I headed for some shade while waiting for the zydeco band. Li'l Nathan was all dressed up in a suit!! I've heard the group several times at Cafe des Amis, but they pulled out all the stops for the festival crowd (not unusual). But I was about done in. Good thing that was the last act. Too much of a good thing, this Life in Louisiana.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
April 26 - Hadley Castille
Legend in his own time. I guess he's mid-70's, been playing cajun music, singing in French, traveling with bands most of his life. He did have a day job in heating & a/c, but now that he's retired he plays and sings for love. Today his granddaughter, Sarah Jayde joins him at the Blue Dog Cafe for a lively family set with his son, Blake on guitar. I can't remember the bass players name, but he is a 4-time grammy winner. Hmm, who's on drums? Eyes wide in amazement --- that's John Rees of the brother/sister band L'Angelus.
April 25 - Festival International #2
Nap is good, but now it's time for more music, dancing, food, fun!! That's what Life in Louisiana is all about. We park at the Cajun Dome and take the free shuttle into DT Lafayette. The city streets are closed, there are 6 stages for music and vendors fill the empty spaces.
After wandering the entire festival due to being directionally-challenged, even with a map, I finally end up at the TV5Monde stage for The Quebe Sisters Band from Texas. They are 3 young women (sisters, silly) who play fiddle and sing, backed up by two guys playing guitar and bass. They play Texas swing and lotsa other stuff. Probably my favorite non-cajun act of the festival.
We caught a l
ittle Walter Mouton (he's trying to retire!!) at the Heritage Stage and then sat through a group called Genticorum from Quebec. Flute, guitar, fiddle & feet. From their website, "They weave precise and intricate fiddle and flute work, gorgeous vocal harmonies, energetic foot percussion and guitar and bass accompaniment into a big and jubilant musical feast. Their distinctive sound, sense of humour and stage presence make them a supreme crowd pleaser." Pleasing, indeed. Check 'em out - surely there's something on You Tube.Then there was Chic Gamine, an all female group (except for the drummer, I'm sensing a pattern) of jazz singers and musicians - well, they do it ALL. These gals from Manitoba project personality, each one different than the next and all irresistable.
Cajun comes next with Balfa Toujours. This is a premier band with top performers. Today, Dirk Powell is on accordion (fresh from touring with Joan Baez), Christine Balfa, daughter of Dewey Balfa - see Heritage Camp - plays guitar and triangle (check out her CD), Joel Savoy & Kevin Wimmer are on fiddle. There's a drummer back there, but I can't quite see who it is.
Cedric Watson & Bijou Creole is the piece de resistance, but he starts out slow and I just can't resist my droopy eyes. Karen & I leave early (9:30pm after being there since 3pm) and my sources tell me I missed a phenomenal set. Damn -- even living the Louisiana Life I'm bound to miss something!
April 25 - Backwards
With company in town, the zydeco breakfast & Fred's seem the logical place to start, but, just for a change, let's do it backwards!! We get to Fred's in Mamou about 9am -- not bad considering it's an hour's drive. Even at this time of day (we usually get there about noon) the place is packed and Tante Sue is handing out the Cinnamon Schnapps and playing her T-shirt with the accordion picture. See Tante Sue here --- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kEMD802IYE The MC is reading the local paper into the microphone in French (after all, it IS a radio show) including the grocery ads. The accordion player is young, and good, and, do tell, a Huval (large family? lots of musicians? remember?). I figure this might be my one and only time to have alcohol before 10am (since I am now a mature adult, finally) so I belly up to the bar and order a daiquiri. OK, it's a daiquiri wine cooler, but it still has some kinda booze in it.
Then it's off t
o the Savoy Music Store to catch the regular Sat. morning Cajun Jam. It's closed? Awww! Later we get the story. Ann & Marc Savoy have a gig at Jazz Fest at 2pm in New Orleans. They rented a luxury travel van and loaded all their regular jam attendees, carting them to New Orleans for the day. When it is time for their performance, they bring ALL the jam members up on the stage and their "act" is to feature the local musicians who show up regularly at the store. What a fantastic time they must have had. The people who come to the jam are regular folk - farmers, tradesmen, young, old, male, female, mostly local but travelers who play are always welcome. Today they play for the world!!
Oh well, there's always breakfast at Cafe des Amis with zydeco dancing before, during & after. Back to Breaux Bridge we go. Getting there after 11am there is no cover charge, but we still have to wait for a table. That's OK - there's dancing while we wait. Our disappointment comes when we are seated, the band is packed and gone and we discover it's lunch menu only :( Shrimp Kidder, anyone? Hard to be disappointed when the food is this yummy. Eat, dance, sleep - time for a nap. That's Life in Louisiana.
Then it's off t
o the Savoy Music Store to catch the regular Sat. morning Cajun Jam. It's closed? Awww! Later we get the story. Ann & Marc Savoy have a gig at Jazz Fest at 2pm in New Orleans. They rented a luxury travel van and loaded all their regular jam attendees, carting them to New Orleans for the day. When it is time for their performance, they bring ALL the jam members up on the stage and their "act" is to feature the local musicians who show up regularly at the store. What a fantastic time they must have had. The people who come to the jam are regular folk - farmers, tradesmen, young, old, male, female, mostly local but travelers who play are always welcome. Today they play for the world!!Oh well, there's always breakfast at Cafe des Amis with zydeco dancing before, during & after. Back to Breaux Bridge we go. Getting there after 11am there is no cover charge, but we still have to wait for a table. That's OK - there's dancing while we wait. Our disappointment comes when we are seated, the band is packed and gone and we discover it's lunch menu only :( Shrimp Kidder, anyone? Hard to be disappointed when the food is this yummy. Eat, dance, sleep - time for a nap. That's Life in Louisiana.
April 24 - Quiet Night at Mulate's
After a hot, walking-filled day in New Orleans with Karen, I am ready for some quiet time. Not real quiet, Lee Benoit quiet. Still so worn out from the day, we order dinner and enjoy the music. There is a dance or two here and there --- and then the energy returns. Lee dedicates his "Dance, Dance, Dance" again and one song just hits the spot. Probably the best dance of my life, wish I could remember the tune --- fortunately Karen got a picture, so I'll have that to remember the night.
April 22 - Festival International #1
The Festival begins tonight. Should be the highlight of my three month stay. I have been able to listen to so much music, dance 'til my feet burn and "study" the culture through films and conversations. This festival in Lafayette brings music from all over the world in addition to showcasing local talent - many of whom have already been mentioned in these posts.
Tonight, my friend Karen, from Arizona, is going to get her first dose of crazy!! Pine Leaf Boys are in the house (well, on the stage) and in full-on, knock 'em dead mode. The crowd is full of energy and the dancers look like they've died and gone to heaven --- cajun-style. The festival will continue through the weekend with arts, crafts, food and street performers enlivening the scheduled acts. It is my second taste of BIG FESTIVAL Louisiana-style, first being Jazz fest last year. The non-dancing crowd is heavy and it is tough to get through the streets.
After
Pine Leaf Boys, the crowd begins to get even worse. There is only one stage tonight and the next act is Keith Frank Family Band, from the small rural community of Soileau in Allen Parish. Bio from the web, " Keith is the son of Preston Frank, member of one of the great Creole musical families. Their family can trace its musical lineage at least as far back as great-grandfather Joseph Frank Jr., an accordion player, and great-great-grandfather, Joseph Frank Sr., who played fiddle. Neither ever recorded. His great-uncle Carlton Frank, one of the last of the old-time Creole fiddlers, died in 2005, at the age of 74." A huge group of young people have come just for this performance. He now adds elements of rap to his music, which dismays purists but brings out these younger listeners.
Tonight, my friend Karen, from Arizona, is going to get her first dose of crazy!! Pine Leaf Boys are in the house (well, on the stage) and in full-on, knock 'em dead mode. The crowd is full of energy and the dancers look like they've died and gone to heaven --- cajun-style. The festival will continue through the weekend with arts, crafts, food and street performers enlivening the scheduled acts. It is my second taste of BIG FESTIVAL Louisiana-style, first being Jazz fest last year. The non-dancing crowd is heavy and it is tough to get through the streets.
After
Pine Leaf Boys, the crowd begins to get even worse. There is only one stage tonight and the next act is Keith Frank Family Band, from the small rural community of Soileau in Allen Parish. Bio from the web, " Keith is the son of Preston Frank, member of one of the great Creole musical families. Their family can trace its musical lineage at least as far back as great-grandfather Joseph Frank Jr., an accordion player, and great-great-grandfather, Joseph Frank Sr., who played fiddle. Neither ever recorded. His great-uncle Carlton Frank, one of the last of the old-time Creole fiddlers, died in 2005, at the age of 74." A huge group of young people have come just for this performance. He now adds elements of rap to his music, which dismays purists but brings out these younger listeners.April 21 & 23 - More Balfa Camp
April 21 - I really wanted to see what the Dewey Balfa Cajun and Creole Heritage Weekcamp was like in the daytime, maybe sit in on an accordion lesson, so I signed up to volunteer. Bad news, they only needed volunteers in the evening :( Good news, I get in free to the dance, and Geno's playing. An hour's drive gets me to the park for an hour's dancing and an hour's "work." I took money and handed out tickets (for food & drink). My fellow volunteer was 74 year old Gilbert Deshotel (zjil-bear dez'-otel). He has lived in Ville Platt all his life, worked in a mine and at the post office, married 57 years to his high school sweetheart and fondly recalled to me the beautiful day of his wedding.
April 23 - The rain is over, but the mosquitos are out in force. Not to worry, if you dance enough, they won't be able to land on your skin. With Savoy Family Band on stage --- Marc Savoy, accordion and daddy; Ann Savoy, guitar, vocals and mommy; Joel Savoy, fiddle and oldest son; and Wilson Savoy, keyboard (whew - hot) and younger son; joined by Drew Simon (see - mohn) on drums --- there will be no lack of music. The camp is winding down, but the participants are all wound up and there is no lack of partners, either. The music keeps everyone on the floor for every dance. I "pity the fool" that just stands there watchin'.
April 23 - The rain is over, but the mosquitos are out in force. Not to worry, if you dance enough, they won't be able to land on your skin. With Savoy Family Band on stage --- Marc Savoy, accordion and daddy; Ann Savoy, guitar, vocals and mommy; Joel Savoy, fiddle and oldest son; and Wilson Savoy, keyboard (whew - hot) and younger son; joined by Drew Simon (see - mohn) on drums --- there will be no lack of music. The camp is winding down, but the participants are all wound up and there is no lack of partners, either. The music keeps everyone on the floor for every dance. I "pity the fool" that just stands there watchin'.
April 18 - Rain, Rain, Go Away
Dewey Balfa Cajun and Creole Heritage Week is held at Chicot State Park near Ville Platte, Louisiana. It is a week of instrumental and dance workshops. On the weekend and in the evenings dances are held for the participants and open to the public. The crowd is heavy but the last legal parking space is straight ahead. I get to the Dance Stage in time forBonsoir, Catin - an all girl (except for the drummer) Cajun band that is kickin'. The talent includes accordion player Kristi Guillory, fiddle player Anya Schoenegge Burgess (also in Magnolia sisters), guitarist Christine Balfa Powell, daughter of the late Dewey Balfa (also in Balfa Toujours) and Yvette Landry on bass. Nice quote from their website --- So what does a Cajun band wish for when playing live? "We’re hoping to get a good dance crowd,” Guillory said with a gust of laughter. Wishes do come true!!Not 5 minutes into the dance (about 5pm) the rain starts - and I left my umbrella and chair in the car, I was so anxious to get on the dance floor. When the rain is still pounding an hour later and my feet are aching, I borrow an umbrella (from Gina Forsythe, violin player for Bruce Daigrepont Cajun Band) and slog to the car for my umbrella & chair. Except for food & drink, I am set for the night and it's a good thing since the rain is still coming down and turning into quite a monsoon.
The dancing and fun continue with Curley Taylor & Zydeco Trouble. The zydeco crowd & cajun crowd overlap a bit, but it is interesting to me how many dancers show up just for the zydeco, and how many dancers leave (or sit out) when the cajun is over. Curly puts on a good show, though, so I am on the floor (dancing, of course) as much as possible. The thunder & the lightning can't drown out his beats and the rhythm of the feet on the soft floor. That's what I am starting to call those raised wood floors that have "bounce" spots. Dancing where the floor is moving with you is scary, but way cool!!
Third band is Read Stick Ramblers --- love that energy, but .... cancelled. Everyone go home while the roads are still safe. The weather has gotten even worse outside, and next day the flooded roads and wind damage are all over the news. The ride home was wet, but uneventful and I was happy to pack it in by 10:30pm.
Apr 17 - Surprise!!
Why didn't this get more press? I'm not that disconnected from the local scene. Long Tall Marica Ball is playing a free concert at Parc Internationale in downtown Lafayette. I got there early and managed to park my chair in the front row. Munching through the sound check (hot dog and a beer) and chatting with my seat neighbors made time speed by. What a show!! All her standards - New Orleans is a Party Town, Mama's Cookin', Crawfishing, Louisiana, etc. Dancing as the sun sets behind the buildings, the moon and stars begin to show through the evening haze, the breeze is blowing lightly -- could be a perfect night.
But there's more! Around the corner and down the street, Grant St. Dance Hall is hosting a 77th birthday party for D.L. Menard. Do you think there's a band? Not just A BAND.
**********LBR************* (Lost Bayou Ramblers, for the uninitiated)
The legend (D.L. Menard wrote J'ai Passe' Devant Ta Porte) joins Louis, Alan, Chris, Andre (we heard him with his father & uncles at Prejeans) and Caruth (with no beard) on stage for classic cajun fiddle. Dance, dance, dance. Dance the night away. Nuthin' but dancing. Ahhhhhhh! Life in Louisiana ...
Friday, April 17, 2009
Apr. 17 - Acadiana Film Festival
The first film I saw was Re-Awakening, the story of Kate Chopin and how she came to write one of the great "feminist" novels of all time. Astounding in that she wrote it in 1899, a time when women were sheltered or smothered, depending on your interpretations. Jessi (my daughter) loaned me the book in 2006 and I was super-excited when I found out it takes place partly in New Orleans. The documentary chronicles her life and writing career. Her family was St. Louis Creole - high class French.
For lunch, I went to Dwyer's. I'd been hearing about lots of fun places to eat in downtown Lafayette, and this was one of them. I had the best grilled cheese & fries EVER!! Plus they offer a plate lunch (more on that later). After eating I wandered over to Parc Sans Souci where Bach Lunch was in full swing. The Canes were playing - they are kind of like Sister Hazel with an accordion!! I grabbed a dance or two, but mostly watched the locals --- how do they do that?
The afternoon film was Raised on Rice and Gravy. This is a documentary by Connie Castille from Breaux Bridge about Plate Lunch Specials. This is a SW Louisiana tradition. Seems like every corner store, gas station and local restaurant serves up a pile o' food with a different menu each day. The menu is posted, but regulars know what's what!! The food is home-cooking and the price is right. The Plate Lunch at Dwyer's (above) was smothered pork chop, dirty rice, green beans, potato salad, with corn bread. If that didn't fill you up, you could always catch a serving of bread pudding. Cheap, fast, delicious!
For lunch, I went to Dwyer's. I'd been hearing about lots of fun places to eat in downtown Lafayette, and this was one of them. I had the best grilled cheese & fries EVER!! Plus they offer a plate lunch (more on that later). After eating I wandered over to Parc Sans Souci where Bach Lunch was in full swing. The Canes were playing - they are kind of like Sister Hazel with an accordion!! I grabbed a dance or two, but mostly watched the locals --- how do they do that?
The afternoon film was Raised on Rice and Gravy. This is a documentary by Connie Castille from Breaux Bridge about Plate Lunch Specials. This is a SW Louisiana tradition. Seems like every corner store, gas station and local restaurant serves up a pile o' food with a different menu each day. The menu is posted, but regulars know what's what!! The food is home-cooking and the price is right. The Plate Lunch at Dwyer's (above) was smothered pork chop, dirty rice, green beans, potato salad, with corn bread. If that didn't fill you up, you could always catch a serving of bread pudding. Cheap, fast, delicious!
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Apr. 16 - Accordion Dreams
Blair Kilpatrick started her cajun journey many years before me, and now she's written a book that tells the tale. Listening to her stories and hearing her play the accordion was a real treat. I haven't been to very many book signings, but I just couldn't resist the combination of chatting with an author and hearing cajun music!! I haven't read the book yet. I'll let you know what I think and then you can borrow it!Her next book is going to be a mystery set at a music camp in NE Alabama (just kidding).
Apr. 14 - A Fiddling Tradition
Tonight Vermilionville dance hall is filled with cane-back chairs (very uncomfortable, unfortunately) where we sit to listen to Anya Burgess (Bonsoir Catin, Magnolia Sisters, etc.), Matthew Doucet (son of Michael - Beausoleil) and Chris Segura, all talented fiddle players, talk about making fiddles.
Did you know??
1) hand-made fiddles are made to the 10th of a millimeter precision
2) the backs are made from a single piece of wood, split, then "butterflied"
3) the grain of the wood can be flared or cross-cut
4) the ribs are glued to the frame with Hide Glue (made from dead horses)
5) the back and top are carved to achieve the curve
6) the difference between a fiddle and a violin?
A violin has strings; a fiddle has strangs.
Did you know??
1) hand-made fiddles are made to the 10th of a millimeter precision
2) the backs are made from a single piece of wood, split, then "butterflied"
3) the grain of the wood can be flared or cross-cut
4) the ribs are glued to the frame with Hide Glue (made from dead horses)
5) the back and top are carved to achieve the curve
6) the difference between a fiddle and a violin?
A violin has strings; a fiddle has strangs.
April 8-10 Another G'ville visitor
This time it is my friend, Pam, who loves art. We spend time on Wednesday exploring St. Martinville and the Longfellow State Historic site. Thursday is Blue Dog day with a visit to the George Rodrigue gallery, the Blue Dog Cafe and the Center for Acadiana Arts where his work is on display. Friday finds us back in the swamp (Lake Martin) for a spectacular weather day and lotsa gators. But you tuned in for the dancing, right?April 8 - Cafe des Amis and L'esprit des Cajuns with Lisa Trahan, Christine Balfa, Joel Savoy's girlfirend & a guy on bucket bass. Lisa's dad, Harry, sits in for a few songs to the delight of all.
April 9 - Mulates for Lee Benoit
April 10 - Randal's for Jambalaya - mostly couples, but we met an interesting older man who regaled us with stories of cajun days. He is a part-time tour guide at Vermilionville and very sweet.
April 6th - Culinary Delight
When company is in town, the weekend extends. I've eaten at Prejean's before, but tonight's meal is fabu-delicious. I start with Shrimp Sassafrasa, two jumbo shrimp stuffed with pepperjack cheese, grilled Tasso, wrapped with apple wood-smoked bacon, breaded and fried and set in a Crawfish Cardinale cream sauce. The G'ville company wants to try the gumbo (again) and settles on Chicken & Sausage, the best of three. Then there's Oysters Mardi Gras, recommended by the waiter, and Crawfish Enchilada served with rice dressing and corn macque choux. The rice dressing is a plop of dirty rice - the best I've ever had - and corn macque choux is sweet corn kernels and red peppers in a cutsie mini-pie shell. We had no room left for dessert and had to take the Bourbon Street Pecan Pie home with us. Just couldn't resist the description -- buttery caramel pecans, layered on a rich gooey filling with a hint of bourbon, all resting in an all-butter short paste crust.Les Frere's Michot entertained us with cajun music --- they are the uncles and father of Louis & Andre Michot of Lost Bayou Ramblers. Wait, that's Andre sitting in --- ahhh, a Lost Bayou boy. Can't wait to see my guys this trip, hope it's soon.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Apr 3-5 Gainesville Company
April 3rd finds us at McGee's Landing, overlooking the Atchafalaya basin. We've had a lot of rain recently and the water is high as the sun dips below the trees. Tonight, Harry Trahan is reuniting with longtime friend and fiddler, Russell Quibodeaux for a splendid Cajun night. Joining the old-timers are Harry's daughter, Lisa Trahan of the Magnolia sisters and Joe Vidrine on guitar, Jane Vidrine's son (Jane is also in the Magnolia Sisters). The music is traditional, Harry does all of the singing in his gravelly voice and I am moved by the joy I see on Lisa's face as she plays alongside her dad. Take a listen to the sound http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz5ltrhShYs&feature=related
April 4th is gonna sound mighty familiar, especially with company in tow. Cafe des Amis for breakfast and dancing, then that long country drive to Fred's in Mamou. Today at Fred's we are entertained by a gentleman from Ville Platte who wants to teach us how to dance. What a hoot!! After a nap it's off to a party in Lafayette. This home is made for company. The dining, living & kitchen areas are laid out so that it's easy to walk around. There's a deck and patio out back where Cedric Watson and others are playing. AND there's a fabulous tree house - screened and elevated to catch the breeze and overlooking a rippling brook, er, bayou.
As if we haven't danced, visited & partied enough, we head on over to Randol's in Lafayette for Paul Daigle and Cajun Gold (shown at the Liberty Theater in Eunice in 2001). Paul is a former accordion prodigy (now he's older, so he's can't be a prodigy!!) and he's got talented fiddle, guitar & drums to round out the traditional Cajun grouping.
April 5th takes me to Vermilionville to tour the village and dance a bit to Cheryl Cormier and friends. There's tons to do today so choosing is tough, but Geno is at Nunu's so .... It's a fund-raiser for the young people who are going to St. Ann's in Nova Scotia for the summer. Here they will be immersed in the French language, Acadiana music and the culture and history of their ancestors. Hadley Castille is in the house supporting his granddaughter, Sarah Jayde, who will be one of the students.
We hate to leave early, but High Performance is having a CD release party at Mulates and it's supposed to end at 9pm. So at 8:30 we pull ourselves away from Geno and head on down the road. Hello --- I have never seen this many cars at Mulate's. The joint is jumping with young people and High Performance is going strong. The visitor was hoping for a chance to dance to Steve Riley during the visit, but we missed him Saturday night. This band is another of those conglomerates, and there he is, yanking that accordion in that Riley-style. We dance 'til our boots are achin' and our bones are breakin' from the crush of the crowd. When we give up fighting for space, we stand by the edge watching the feet. This is NOT Cajun dancing. This is NOT Zydeco dancing. Whew - but it sure is fun!!
April 4th is gonna sound mighty familiar, especially with company in tow. Cafe des Amis for breakfast and dancing, then that long country drive to Fred's in Mamou. Today at Fred's we are entertained by a gentleman from Ville Platte who wants to teach us how to dance. What a hoot!! After a nap it's off to a party in Lafayette. This home is made for company. The dining, living & kitchen areas are laid out so that it's easy to walk around. There's a deck and patio out back where Cedric Watson and others are playing. AND there's a fabulous tree house - screened and elevated to catch the breeze and overlooking a rippling brook, er, bayou.
As if we haven't danced, visited & partied enough, we head on over to Randol's in Lafayette for Paul Daigle and Cajun Gold (shown at the Liberty Theater in Eunice in 2001). Paul is a former accordion prodigy (now he's older, so he's can't be a prodigy!!) and he's got talented fiddle, guitar & drums to round out the traditional Cajun grouping.
April 5th takes me to Vermilionville to tour the village and dance a bit to Cheryl Cormier and friends. There's tons to do today so choosing is tough, but Geno is at Nunu's so .... It's a fund-raiser for the young people who are going to St. Ann's in Nova Scotia for the summer. Here they will be immersed in the French language, Acadiana music and the culture and history of their ancestors. Hadley Castille is in the house supporting his granddaughter, Sarah Jayde, who will be one of the students.
We hate to leave early, but High Performance is having a CD release party at Mulates and it's supposed to end at 9pm. So at 8:30 we pull ourselves away from Geno and head on down the road. Hello --- I have never seen this many cars at Mulate's. The joint is jumping with young people and High Performance is going strong. The visitor was hoping for a chance to dance to Steve Riley during the visit, but we missed him Saturday night. This band is another of those conglomerates, and there he is, yanking that accordion in that Riley-style. We dance 'til our boots are achin' and our bones are breakin' from the crush of the crowd. When we give up fighting for space, we stand by the edge watching the feet. This is NOT Cajun dancing. This is NOT Zydeco dancing. Whew - but it sure is fun!!
Apr 1 - No Foolin'
Cafe des Amis has been a mid-week joy!! Tonight it is my mandolin friends again, but this time they are playing fiddle and guitar as well, and pulling out swing, old-time, gypsy and cajun tunes for our listening entertainment. They are called Easy Street and it is an easy time, bit 'o wine, nice dinner, friends at the table .... ahhh. Did I mention dancing? No? Well, I did!!
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Mar 31 - Parlez-vous Francais?
Yeh, yeh --- not music. So skip this one!!
Life in Louisiana is not complete without a bit of French immersion. I had heard about French tables and decided it was time to try one out. Coincidentally, there was one meeting right after my hair appointment (with Dreu Daigle, Paul's daughter - I'm a name-dropper, Cajun-style).
Here's the drill - you have lunch with strangers who wish to speak only French during this time, although they all speak English, too. We met at the Jefferson St. Pub in downtown Lafayette. Very cool, large, old building, probably a hotel in a former life. We were ten, and I couldn't understand a WORD in the babble around me :(
Politely, one person asked my name. "Je m'appelle Joyce," my HS french replied. "Blah, blah, blah nom de famille," I heard in reply. Huh?? Votre mere? Votre pere? Nom? What nice people, resorting to baby-talk French so that I can understand. "Uhh, Thompson,' I replied. With a knowing nod (was that a sneer?) he said, "Anglais."
Mais, oui --- I did my best and sort of understand the kind gentleman who spent some of his time talking only to me. When I needed to talk, however, in answer to a question or to keep up my end of the conversation, it was back to parle de bebe.
Life in Louisiana is not complete without a bit of French immersion. I had heard about French tables and decided it was time to try one out. Coincidentally, there was one meeting right after my hair appointment (with Dreu Daigle, Paul's daughter - I'm a name-dropper, Cajun-style).
Here's the drill - you have lunch with strangers who wish to speak only French during this time, although they all speak English, too. We met at the Jefferson St. Pub in downtown Lafayette. Very cool, large, old building, probably a hotel in a former life. We were ten, and I couldn't understand a WORD in the babble around me :(
Politely, one person asked my name. "Je m'appelle Joyce," my HS french replied. "Blah, blah, blah nom de famille," I heard in reply. Huh?? Votre mere? Votre pere? Nom? What nice people, resorting to baby-talk French so that I can understand. "Uhh, Thompson,' I replied. With a knowing nod (was that a sneer?) he said, "Anglais."
Mais, oui --- I did my best and sort of understand the kind gentleman who spent some of his time talking only to me. When I needed to talk, however, in answer to a question or to keep up my end of the conversation, it was back to parle de bebe.
Monday, April 6, 2009
Mar. 29 - Cajun Mandolins Again
Sunday morning and the Blue Dog is playing host to the mandolin trio that we heard at Nunu's last week. Since you've already heard about the band, let me tell you about The Blue Dog Cafe.George Rodrigue paints scenes of Cajun life with a ghostly quality. His work is currently on exhibit at the Acadiana Center for the Arts in Lafayette. While working on an image for the cajun legend of the loup-garou (french werewolf) he created a dog with an unearthly, blue-gray cast to its fur. Ultimately, this "blue dog" became an iconic symbol in his art along with a heavy oak found often in the background.
The Blue Dog Cafe displays much of his work, sells books and T-shirts and serves a delicious menu of SW Louisiana yummies AND hosts a Sunday brunch with live music.
Lots of dance and music people show up at The Blue Dog and then move over to the Blue Moon Saloon. We are all attending a memorial event for a fellow traveler who has left us for the music jam in the sky. Dave is not someone I know, but his life touched many people in the area and they organized a special tribute and jam to celebrate his spirit. What a warm feeling, to see that so many people (famous and otherwise) appreciate Dave's contribution to Life in Louisiana.
Mar 28 - Not Nunu's
Well, I tried. Bonsoir Catin was advertised at Nunu's tonight, but one of the band members got sick and they had to cancel the gig :) Bonsoir Catin is an almost all-girl Cajun band with tons of energy. The members mostly play in other bands, too, so maybe I will catch them, or part of them, at another time.
Where y'all dancin' tonight? That's the catch phrase for the Acadiana yahoo group :)
So where will I dance? If not, Nunu's then --- La Poussiere in Breaux Bridge where Pine Leaf Boys (minus Cedric Watson) are makin' a ruckus. My job is to dance 'til I drop so the band won't stop. La Poussiere (means "the dust" in French) is a wonderful dance hall. For those uninitiated, the difference between a dance hall and a bar is:
1) a bar has a large, long bar where you can order drinks and a small place where you can dance
2) a dance hall has a large space where you can dance and a small bar where you can order drinks
It's a "couples" crowd --- I've seen that a lot --- and the floor is so smooth and slippery that I have to change out my boots for regular walking shoes. But the music is Pine Leaf luscious and there are friends to dance with so, "life is good."
Where y'all dancin' tonight? That's the catch phrase for the Acadiana yahoo group :)
So where will I dance? If not, Nunu's then --- La Poussiere in Breaux Bridge where Pine Leaf Boys (minus Cedric Watson) are makin' a ruckus. My job is to dance 'til I drop so the band won't stop. La Poussiere (means "the dust" in French) is a wonderful dance hall. For those uninitiated, the difference between a dance hall and a bar is:
1) a bar has a large, long bar where you can order drinks and a small place where you can dance
2) a dance hall has a large space where you can dance and a small bar where you can order drinks
It's a "couples" crowd --- I've seen that a lot --- and the floor is so smooth and slippery that I have to change out my boots for regular walking shoes. But the music is Pine Leaf luscious and there are friends to dance with so, "life is good."
Mar. 26-28 Film Festival
As I said, "Life in Louisiana is not all Cajun and Zydeco."
Mar. 26 --- Tonight begins the Cinema on the Bayou Film Festival at Pack & Paddle, think Brasington's on steroids!! It's a great venue with comfortable folding chairs (bag chairs), refreshments and good acoustics. The movies are Anything I Can Catch: The Handfishing Story and The Buffalo Flows. In the first, Pat Mire describes the Cajun tradition, taught to him by his father, of wading into the bayou fully clothed (for some reason, that really got my attention) and reaching into a submerged log to pull out a giant catfish or turtle. Gotta admite that Cajun grit. The Buffalo Flows movie included spectacular scenery & interesting history of the Buffalo River in the Ozarks and how its natural beauty was rescued from the damming fate of so many rivers in the search for hydroelectric resources.
Mar 27 --- Friday night's movies are at LITE: Louisiana Immersive Technologies Enterprise. There is a short, Ken Burns-type movie (still pictures with background music) about the
West Nickel Mines Massacre where a man murdered several Amish school children and the community reached out in forgiveness. The second film was called Hot Flash (can you relate?) about three middle-aged women who formed a blues band and travelled all over the world as Saffire, the Uppity Blues Women. Lots of music and happinesshere!!
Mar. 28 --- Saturday takes me to Cite des Arts in downtown Lafayette for Evangeline. This film looks at the myth of the Longfellow poem and the possible myth of the back-story related for tourists at the Evangeline Oak in St. Martinville. It takes an intellectual look at the possiblities behind the poem's origins and gives credit to the poem for bringing world-wide attention to the Acadian people in SW Louisiana. The poem, Evangeline, may not tell a true story of lovers separated only to be re-united on their deathbeds, but it (the poem) can be credited for ingniting personal searches that might re-unite families from Nova Scotia and France to their historical cousins in Cajun country.
The second film this morning was a real head-shaker. Called Tsunami Escape, the young film-maker juxtaposes Long Beach, Washington (his former home) with New Orleans (his present home). Until explanations following the film, I was completely baffled. However, it turns out that Long Beach, WA is in a geologically fragile area, part of the Cascadia Subduction Zone and a tsunami was predicted to hit this area in 1995 (he would have been about 12 years old). The film's images were interlaced with Hurricane Katrina photos, sort of contrasting Washington State with NOLA --- or maybe he was exploring his own fragility in making such a drastic change in his life, moving from the WA to LA, and New Orleans, no less. He should give Cajun country a try --- that'll settle his biscuits!!
Mar. 26 --- Tonight begins the Cinema on the Bayou Film Festival at Pack & Paddle, think Brasington's on steroids!! It's a great venue with comfortable folding chairs (bag chairs), refreshments and good acoustics. The movies are Anything I Can Catch: The Handfishing Story and The Buffalo Flows. In the first, Pat Mire describes the Cajun tradition, taught to him by his father, of wading into the bayou fully clothed (for some reason, that really got my attention) and reaching into a submerged log to pull out a giant catfish or turtle. Gotta admite that Cajun grit. The Buffalo Flows movie included spectacular scenery & interesting history of the Buffalo River in the Ozarks and how its natural beauty was rescued from the damming fate of so many rivers in the search for hydroelectric resources.
Mar 27 --- Friday night's movies are at LITE: Louisiana Immersive Technologies Enterprise. There is a short, Ken Burns-type movie (still pictures with background music) about the
West Nickel Mines Massacre where a man murdered several Amish school children and the community reached out in forgiveness. The second film was called Hot Flash (can you relate?) about three middle-aged women who formed a blues band and travelled all over the world as Saffire, the Uppity Blues Women. Lots of music and happinesshere!!Mar. 28 --- Saturday takes me to Cite des Arts in downtown Lafayette for Evangeline. This film looks at the myth of the Longfellow poem and the possible myth of the back-story related for tourists at the Evangeline Oak in St. Martinville. It takes an intellectual look at the possiblities behind the poem's origins and gives credit to the poem for bringing world-wide attention to the Acadian people in SW Louisiana. The poem, Evangeline, may not tell a true story of lovers separated only to be re-united on their deathbeds, but it (the poem) can be credited for ingniting personal searches that might re-unite families from Nova Scotia and France to their historical cousins in Cajun country.
The second film this morning was a real head-shaker. Called Tsunami Escape, the young film-maker juxtaposes Long Beach, Washington (his former home) with New Orleans (his present home). Until explanations following the film, I was completely baffled. However, it turns out that Long Beach, WA is in a geologically fragile area, part of the Cascadia Subduction Zone and a tsunami was predicted to hit this area in 1995 (he would have been about 12 years old). The film's images were interlaced with Hurricane Katrina photos, sort of contrasting Washington State with NOLA --- or maybe he was exploring his own fragility in making such a drastic change in his life, moving from the WA to LA, and New Orleans, no less. He should give Cajun country a try --- that'll settle his biscuits!!
Mar. 25 - Nouveau String Band
Cafe des Amis again?? But it's so close, and it is so cute and it has music and dancing!!!
Tonight is Nouveau String Band, a multi-talented swing band with Johanna Devine, a fill-in female singer. The Cafe is packed tonight and we are at a table in the back. Soon the overflow encroaches and we end up sharing (wow!! just like Saturday morning!!) our table with Zach Huval and his girlfriend, Dreu Daigle. Yup, she's Paul Daigle's daughter and he (Zach) is a member of the very musically talented, very prolific Huval family (I think there's 14 children).
What a fun night --- swing dance music just gets people up to dance and keeps them smiling!! Life in Louisiana is not all Cajun and Zydeco.
.
Tonight is Nouveau String Band, a multi-talented swing band with Johanna Devine, a fill-in female singer. The Cafe is packed tonight and we are at a table in the back. Soon the overflow encroaches and we end up sharing (wow!! just like Saturday morning!!) our table with Zach Huval and his girlfriend, Dreu Daigle. Yup, she's Paul Daigle's daughter and he (Zach) is a member of the very musically talented, very prolific Huval family (I think there's 14 children).
What a fun night --- swing dance music just gets people up to dance and keeps them smiling!! Life in Louisiana is not all Cajun and Zydeco.
.
Mar 20-22 More Company
Last week my daughter came to Cajun country and this weekend, my brother (Neal) & son (Alex) are visiting. I am really hoping they will understand the pull that this area has on me, but, if nothing else, I know they will enjoy the music!!
Mar. 20 -- Teche Theater: The Berard Family Band is recording a live CD and DVD tonight in a newly renovated movie house in St. Martinville. The DVD will be a pilot for a possible TV series - sort of Austin City Limits meets Rendez-vous des Cajuns (Liberty Theater). When we finally get into the theater from the sweltering lobby, there is a ton of equipment and a few chairs. We are lucky enough to snag some - it's gonna be a long night!! Due to the recording plans, we wait for sound check(s), camera check(s), light check(s), etc. Finally the music starts so we can get on our feet dancing - but watch out for the camera dolly. The filmmaker is right up front, sitting on a chair with a camera tripod in front of him, being pushed, then pulled, back and forth in front of the stage. It's a good night, great music, fun people - but the interior of the Teche Theater needs some re-decorating!!
Mar. 21 -- McGee's Landing: We are having our fill of swamps today!! After a pirogue tour of Lake Martin followed by boudin and cracklins, we head to the Atchafalaya Basin. McGee's is a large restaurant right on the edge of the water with a spectacular view, especially from the open air deck. The deck, dance floor & eating area have been completely re-done, thanks to Hurricane Gustaf. Tonight I can check one of my trip goals off my list!! BEAUSOLEIL --- ahhhh .... finally, in person and outstanding. I recognized many songs from the CD I own, but when they started playing "new" stuff, I knew I had to buy their latest CD, Alligator Purse. There were only a few dancers and a moderate number of watchers - a disappointing crowd considering the musicianship offered and the chance to celebrate McGee's 25 years in business. But I wasn't disappointed. They were playing just for me, celebrating my 44th day of Life In Louisiana.
Mar 22 -- Nunu's (again): Today we are in for a special treat. Cajun Mandolins, another musical conglomerate, consists of Al Berard (yes, the same one from Friday night, but this time on mandolin instead of fiddle) with Lisa and Mark from Connecticut. They are all playing mandolin, but Lisa has a larger, more rounded version called a mandocello (a lower tone, as in cello). Fingers are flying and music is twinkling in the morning light. I could not find them on You Tube (yet), but close your eyes & listen to the mandolin (not the drums or piano) on this link and you will get a sorta idea --- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gn17xsKqt1s --- X 3 :):) Fiddles and guitars and traded around with the mandolins creating magical memories.
Mar. 20 -- Teche Theater: The Berard Family Band is recording a live CD and DVD tonight in a newly renovated movie house in St. Martinville. The DVD will be a pilot for a possible TV series - sort of Austin City Limits meets Rendez-vous des Cajuns (Liberty Theater). When we finally get into the theater from the sweltering lobby, there is a ton of equipment and a few chairs. We are lucky enough to snag some - it's gonna be a long night!! Due to the recording plans, we wait for sound check(s), camera check(s), light check(s), etc. Finally the music starts so we can get on our feet dancing - but watch out for the camera dolly. The filmmaker is right up front, sitting on a chair with a camera tripod in front of him, being pushed, then pulled, back and forth in front of the stage. It's a good night, great music, fun people - but the interior of the Teche Theater needs some re-decorating!!
Mar. 21 -- McGee's Landing: We are having our fill of swamps today!! After a pirogue tour of Lake Martin followed by boudin and cracklins, we head to the Atchafalaya Basin. McGee's is a large restaurant right on the edge of the water with a spectacular view, especially from the open air deck. The deck, dance floor & eating area have been completely re-done, thanks to Hurricane Gustaf. Tonight I can check one of my trip goals off my list!! BEAUSOLEIL --- ahhhh .... finally, in person and outstanding. I recognized many songs from the CD I own, but when they started playing "new" stuff, I knew I had to buy their latest CD, Alligator Purse. There were only a few dancers and a moderate number of watchers - a disappointing crowd considering the musicianship offered and the chance to celebrate McGee's 25 years in business. But I wasn't disappointed. They were playing just for me, celebrating my 44th day of Life In Louisiana.
Mar 22 -- Nunu's (again): Today we are in for a special treat. Cajun Mandolins, another musical conglomerate, consists of Al Berard (yes, the same one from Friday night, but this time on mandolin instead of fiddle) with Lisa and Mark from Connecticut. They are all playing mandolin, but Lisa has a larger, more rounded version called a mandocello (a lower tone, as in cello). Fingers are flying and music is twinkling in the morning light. I could not find them on You Tube (yet), but close your eyes & listen to the mandolin (not the drums or piano) on this link and you will get a sorta idea --- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gn17xsKqt1s --- X 3 :):) Fiddles and guitars and traded around with the mandolins creating magical memories.
March 18 - Bonne Chance
Good Luck, indeed. Every evening (or morning!!) at Cafe des Amis is a fresh and wondrous experience. The band is snuggled into the bay window and the tables are scattered nearby, but it feels like we are sitting on the front porch listening to our uncles and cousins sing our favorite songs. The four members of the group are all excellent musicians, but it was even more fun watching them enjoy their time playing together.As with many Cajun groups, these men can't give up their day jobs. They are playing tonight for the love of the music and we get to watch and listen (and dance).I loved this quote I found on the internet, "One of the continuing surprises for anyone who becomes acquainted with Cajun music is just how many musicians are out there playing at home or in jam sessions, especially the number of younger musicians who keep the tradition going just because they love the music. When they get together as a group and let the rest of us in on their music, it is a wonderful treat for everyone. Bonne Chance is certainly an excellent example of why Cajun music continues to thrive."
I was honored to be "let in" this evening.
http://www.lsue.edu/acadgate/music/bonnechance.htm
March 17 - St. Pat's day in Cajun Country
Celjun - not a misprint. It's Celtic music mooooshed with Cajun music and it's tonight at Blue Moon. Twist my arm, I gotta go!!! Tony Davoren on guitar, Mitch Reed on fiddle (he plays fiddle & bass with Beausoleil) and a flute player - wish I'd caught his name!! The music is amazing and we are there to watch. But after the members of the Ryan School of Dance Irish step-dancing team did their thing, the floor was cleared and everyone got into the act. Some of the Irish music was very contra-like, so Matthew instigated a two-square (8 people) dance that was as good as any rehearsed performance.
One of the audience members was staying at the Blue Moon, visiting from Ireland, so she got her flute & joined the band for several numbers. Then the bagpiper arrived, in full Irish regalia fresh from the Lafayette St. Paddy's Day parade, to play with the band. It was a swirling, whirling night of dance and music and high spirits.
One of the audience members was staying at the Blue Moon, visiting from Ireland, so she got her flute & joined the band for several numbers. Then the bagpiper arrived, in full Irish regalia fresh from the Lafayette St. Paddy's Day parade, to play with the band. It was a swirling, whirling night of dance and music and high spirits.
March 15 - Arnaudville
I had such a good time last Sunday that I want to share these two special places with Jessi. So it's off to Arnaudville to listen to The Figs at Nunu's. The Figs are an all girl (young lady) musical group. Yes, they play cajun 2-step and waltzes. But they cross over into swing, blues and old-time as the spirit moves them. When they harmonize, you could close your eyes and drift off to heaven. They have a young following, but I see lots of familiar faces as I look around the room. AND in honor of the day, Jess & I order the Jambon - a ham sandwich (ha, ha, ha). Well, there's ham, but it's on a pressed panini sprinkled with freshly grated parmesan cheese that melts into the bread with fig confit liberally spread over the ham.
Fully stuffed, we waddle over to Tom's Fiddle & Bow. Tom repairs fiddles and Lori is an artist. On Sundays they open their studio home in downtown Arnaudville (don't blink, you'll miss it!!) to a very popular Cajun jam. This jam has no figs, but fiddles, guitar, bass, accordion & triangle tickle your ears. The old-timers sing in Cajun French and everyone plays along. If you don't have an instrument, you can tap on the door sill or wander among the art or kick back on the glass porch overlooking Bayou Fuselier. Did I mention the food? Cajuns loooooove to eat, so everyone brings a dish and, as the afternoon grows long, you fill up on whatever suits your fancy!! It's an afternooon fais-do-do that's as simple and heartfelt as anything you can find when living Life in Louisiana.
Fully stuffed, we waddle over to Tom's Fiddle & Bow. Tom repairs fiddles and Lori is an artist. On Sundays they open their studio home in downtown Arnaudville (don't blink, you'll miss it!!) to a very popular Cajun jam. This jam has no figs, but fiddles, guitar, bass, accordion & triangle tickle your ears. The old-timers sing in Cajun French and everyone plays along. If you don't have an instrument, you can tap on the door sill or wander among the art or kick back on the glass porch overlooking Bayou Fuselier. Did I mention the food? Cajuns loooooove to eat, so everyone brings a dish and, as the afternoon grows long, you fill up on whatever suits your fancy!! It's an afternooon fais-do-do that's as simple and heartfelt as anything you can find when living Life in Louisiana.
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